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Re: front axle boot torn, how expensive and difficult to fix? #447653 05/11/04 06:43 AM
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 583
txsoulfly Offline
Rock Warrior
When I changed out my boots (outer ones)I purchased the universal boots from a local auto parts place. The quality is so far pretty good (over 3k miles). I would not run out and buy a replacement just yet. I had some help from some local zu owners which made it fun and interesting. I would search for some locals (not sure where you are from) to help you with your fix. When we changed out my boots we removed the rotor assembly to make taking the cv out alot quicker. Some would say that there are easier and better ways to do this job, but it's really about what works for you. If you're TX let me know and I would be happy to help you out. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Good luck. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />


Mando
1998 Rodeo S 4x4 3.2, OME 913's, 2" coil spacers, Rancho 9000's
Re: front axle boot torn, how expensive and difficult to fix? [Re: txsoulfly] #447654 05/11/04 11:54 PM
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,087
F
Frisky Offline
Body Damage is Cool
Yeah, us Texas ZU's LOOOOOVVVVVVEEEEE to do CV boots <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

It isn't that bad really. I think Bob Large did a little write up ina post about exactly how we did it on Mando's Rodeo. The worst part of the whole thing was the speed sensor thing for the Antilock brakes. Other than that, removing the caliper and taking the entire hub assembly with rotor off was the best idea we ever had on that job. It gives you plenty of room to get to the CV and all. If you have any questions, or if you are in our area, we can hook you up. Txsoulfly, Frisky or Bob Large. We are professionals with them there boot thingies <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />


1992 Isuzu Rodeo 2WD (some assembly required). "If it doesn't fit....Force it!! If it breaks, it needed to be replaced anyway."
Re: front axle boot torn, how expensive and difficult to fix? [Re: txsoulfly] #447655 05/12/04 12:31 AM
Anonymous
Unregistered
Quote
When I changed out my boots (outer ones)I purchased the universal boots from a local auto parts place. The quality is so far pretty good (over 3k miles). I would not run out and buy a replacement just yet. I had some help from some local zu owners which made it fun and interesting. I would search for some locals (not sure where you are from) to help you with your fix. When we changed out my boots we removed the rotor assembly to make taking the cv out alot quicker. Some would say that there are easier and better ways to do this job, but it's really about what works for you. If you're TX let me know and I would be happy to help you out. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Good luck. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />


thanks, but im in GA. Did you pull the entire axle shaft and disconnect the inner, did you drop the differential, or did you do it like the article, or did you just pull the outer boot?

I guess you pulled the whole c/v shaft since you cant slip a boot over the outer apparantly?

Well, I probably get the split boot and just try to put it on without pulling anything but the wheel, or maybe ill sell it as is, or maybe Ill get a regular boot and follow the article, it all depends on what happens down the road...Its a second vehicle now and I would like to keep the truck, but with a recent divorce, i really cant afford a second vehicle anymore...

If you know anybody looking for a decent truck for a decent price, pass them my way. everything is working now, and I just replaced a noisy rocker, so the engine purrs like a kitten, only thing the truck needs is a boot.

Re: front axle boot torn, how expensive and difficult to fix? [Re: Frisky] #447656 05/12/04 12:39 AM
Anonymous
Unregistered
Did you pull the spindle and use the special "pop" thing and just change the outer boot without disconnecting the inner? or did you pull the rotor and hub and pull the complete axle out anyway?

Re: front axle boot torn, how expensive and difficult to fix? #447657 05/12/04 05:35 AM
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,087
F
Frisky Offline
Body Damage is Cool
OK, here is what we did:

Pull the wheel off
remove the brake caliper
remove the speed sensor (allen screw and it pulls towards the motor
remove the upper and lower ball joint castle nuts and remove
remove the tie rod end castle nut.
remove hub or flange
remove the hub assembly
I am doing this from memory, so I think that is all of those components
Then you have to take the inner boot large band off, and remove the CV by taking a ring clip off of the inner edge of the CV cup (inner CV)
pull the CV out of the inner cup
remove the clip holding the CV together
remove the bearing portion of CV
remove inner boot
remove outer boot

assembly is reverse of removal

It isn't that bad really. Our speed sensor was a pain to get out, and the Ball joints on one side were difficult to get back in.

Oh, BTW you have to jack the truck up first <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/coolg.gif" alt="" />

You can get numbers from us and call if you get stuck


1992 Isuzu Rodeo 2WD (some assembly required). "If it doesn't fit....Force it!! If it breaks, it needed to be replaced anyway."
Re: front axle boot torn, how expensive and difficult to fix? [Re: Frisky] #447658 05/13/04 02:40 AM
Anonymous
Unregistered
sounds like you took all the crap out of your way. when you say "hub or flange" are you referring to the spindle? I think its called the spindle, the thing the rotor slides on to..

Re: front axle boot torn, how expensive and difficult to fix? #447659 05/13/04 03:47 PM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 114
T
Trooperfreak Offline
Wheeler
ROC,
FYI, the split boots made by Motormite (available at Advance and Pep Boys) seal with small screws and nuts...no glue. I've had them on my Trooper for 1 year without a problem. I just checked them last weekend for wear. The glue type split boots are garbage. BTW, I used very narrow screw type band clamps rather than the PITA manual clamps that came with the boots.

Note that my hubs only turn when 4wd engaged...that does make a difference.


'86 Isuzu Trooper II, Durabak coated exterior, 4ZE1 2.6L, Weber 32/36, K&N, Rancho RS9000, Indy4X shackles, BJ flip/T-bar crank, Pacesetter header, dual core radiator, Mazda seats, 31x10.5 BFG TAKO's
Re: front axle boot torn, how expensive and difficult to fix? [Re: Trooperfreak] #447660 05/13/04 06:08 PM
Anonymous
Unregistered
Back in the good old days (1970's) I had a VW bug. I used split boots on that. They never worked very well. The seal wasn't very good. I guess they have been improved since then?

Of course, considering the condition I was usually in back in the 70's, I could have put them on wrong. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />
Jim

Re: front axle boot torn, how expensive and difficult to fix? #447661 05/13/04 07:26 PM
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,087
F
Frisky Offline
Body Damage is Cool
well, hub or flange refers to the manual hub, auto hub or the flange which is a plate that locks the CV in. IIRC, you said you have the flange. so you just remove that, and the bearing to get the stuff off the spindle. That is the rotor assembly and the lug portion.


1992 Isuzu Rodeo 2WD (some assembly required). "If it doesn't fit....Force it!! If it breaks, it needed to be replaced anyway."
Re: front axle boot torn, how expensive and difficult to fix? [Re: Frisky] #447662 05/13/04 09:46 PM
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 7,268
mlclark Offline
Isuzu Moderator
*****
IIRC, you said you have the flange. so you just remove that, and the bearing to get the stuff off the spindle. That is the rotor assembly and the lug portion.

Nope. The wheel hub does not have to be removed. The locking hub, flange or auto hub assembly has to be removed, but only to undo the c-clip on the end of the axle. After that is done, pop both BJ's, remove the caliper and swing the entire knuckle, spindle and rotor assembly out of the way. This way, the wheel bearings do not have to be messed with.

In the time spent discussing this, all 4 boots could have been replaced. Just do it. Do it right and do not use the split boots. Trust me, you do not want to do this job twice. It will just piss you off. I suggest separating the inner joint so you can replace the outer boot with it on the bench. Doing it on the truck is a bear, because it flops around a bunch. This will also give you a chance to position the new inner boot on the axle shaft for when you put it all back together.

Trust us. There are a lot of us who have done this many many times. It is no fun, but it is not that difficult. I promise you that we are not holding back some secret grease-free easy method of doing this. We are talking about $30 or so in boots and a weekend of your time for one side. The next time you do it, it will go faster.

Now, get out there and get greasy. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Good Luck,
Michael

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