What parts do you need?

Factory wiring diagrams (whole manuals are VERY nice to have) for both your truck and the donor
Starion parts:
engine block (or modify yours to take the piston oil squirters).

intake manifold with throttle body and all sensors, and brake booster hoses and check valve, and thermostat top with turbo water line fitting.

Exhaust manifold, turbo (with all hoses and hard lines), O2 sensor and exhaust housing, and downpipe with first cat.
steel water line on exhaust/rear of engine block for turbo water line fitting, or late model water pump with integral fitting.

NEW turbo oil feed line.

oil cooler with lines and block adapter (oil feed line attaches here) - lines will have to be modified to fit - I just used the banjo ends by cutting off the crimps with a whiz wheel and pulling off all the hoses and used ATF cooler hose and double quality clamps).

ECU with case.

control relay (near ecu on outer side of passenger footwell, beside glove box).

complete ecu wiring harness and everything connected to it, plus about 6" of wire and both halves of the harness plug that connects to the cross dash harness behind the glove box - this will be your splice into the vehicle wiring for constant 12v for ecu memory, switched 12v for ecu, and gnd.

air filter can with air flow meter and air temp sensor inside.

vapor canister.

timing cover (or drill and tap yours for a nipple for the turbo oil return line - the boss is already there with a depression in the middle, just drill and tap).

turbo heat shields.

Spark box and all associated wiring, starion distributor, and coil.

Entire Starion throttle cable - it points wrong at the firewall, but you can twist the curved tube into alignment (just a tad above horizontal to the left) with a little persuasion.

Starion SAS system complete (black box with vac can on the side between t/b and valve cover, hard pipe to exhaust, all soft lines).

Starion fuel pump, or aftermarket pump (master e8000 is good minor upgrade over stock, and master e2315 is a marked upgrade - AutoZone has both at about $90 and $135 respectively).

Starion fuel filter and all fuel lines from frame mounted hard lines to filter and from filter to TB, and from TB to hard return line.

Intercooler is donor so equipped, and all hoses.


Modifications to Starion motor to fit the Monty:
Use Monty oil pan, oil pump, oil dipstick (bent at rubber grommet to fit under the turbo) and pan pickup. This loses the starion intake-side dipstick and the oil vapor/liquid separator on the air filter lid's oil return fitting. I never hooked my liquid return up, and haven't really noticed any dripping out.

Use the truck motor mounts from the block out to the frame.

Use the truck p/s pump and bracket, but mount it before you put on the oil filter, because the p/s pump integral reservoir and the oil filter block access to the rear lower pump/bracket bolt.

Use the Starion alternator - it plugs right up and is of higher capacity.


Stuff you have to make:
Suprisingly little to fab. You need an entire exhaust system from downpipe to tailpipe. The Starion downpipe and both cats can be spiced into the stock tailpipe/muffler system (alignment is perfect side to side, and only about 1.5" too long), but the Monty pipe diameter is marginal for a carb motor, and chokes the life right out of the turbo. 2.5" is a good size, and if you cut off the downpipe at the weld of tube to the o2 sensor housing, you get a nice cast stub over which 2.5" tube fits nicely.

You need to mount one of the fuel pump choices near the tank. I mounted mine to the tubular crossmember between tank and rear axle with two hose clamps, and put a rubber cushion between pump and rail and clamps and rail to kill some sound. I used ordinary fuel line for the suction line to the tank outlet, but I put a stainless steel spring inside the line to keep pump suction from collapsing it. A section of closely fitting copper tube would also serve but do not use it for the sole fuel line - copper fatigues and cracks if clamped in a vibrating bind. I used fi fuel hose from pump to monty hard lines, with double aircraft quality hose clamps. I used just the end fittings from fuel filter lines with more fi fuel hose and double clamps. the fuel return line was more fi hose (overkill - return pressures are low) and clamps. You have to run a new wire from the control relay harness to the fuel pump - use pretty good size wire here, and ground the pump to the frame.

If you have an a/t, you need to fab a bracket for the tranny throttle vavle cable. The TB has two return springs on the throttle. One is a helical spring wrapped around the trhottle shaft. The other is a coil spring attached to a fixed bracket and to a secondary arm bolted to the throttle shaft. I removed the coil spring, and rebent the secndary arm. I used a piece of 1"w x 1/8"th w/ 3/8" holes on 1" centers perforated steel strap for the bracket (hdw store has it in various lengths). I twisted it 90* about 2.5" from one end, and bolted it the the lower part of the driver's side of the TB where the fat ground wire goes. I positioned the other end by twising on the attaching bolt and bending to get it at about 4.1" from the end of the rebent arm. I had drilled the end of the rebent arm to accept the tv cable clevis end pin. The effective length of the tv cable is adjustable by two nuts that sandwich the mounting bracket on a threaded tube that forms the end of the tv cable housing for fine adjustments, and by moving the bracket for coarse ones. I had to find the proper adjustment by trial and error, observing upshift/downshift speeds until they felt right.

If you use the intercooler, you have to work on routing of the hoses thru the radiator core support, and mounting brackets. I haven't done one yet, so some of you "cooler" guys chime in. Use one if you can, as it's worth quite a few ponies.

You have to make the lines for and mount the oil cooler.

You have to supply the starion harness with constant-on 12v, ignition switched 12v, start position 12v, and gnd from the truck wiring system, and ground all the efi harness ground wires.

You have to relocate the firewall grommet on the starion harness to a position closer to the ecu, and provide a firewall hole for the O2 sensor wire which runs seperate from the main efi harness, and has it's own grommet.

You can (I didn't) provide mounting hard points for the air filter can.

There is an ecu function that shuts off the fuel to the engine during coast down with a closed throttle and vehicle speed above some minimum value. The ecu requires a signal from the vehicle speed sensor to do this (it works ok without it hooked up, but you are losing some mpg, and making a smidgen of extra emissions). The starion has an electronic speedo in some models (with the LCD dash) or a pulse generator (in the analog dash models) that provide this signal. The Monty has a reed switch in the speedo that gives an acceptable signal, and you can tap it's wire either at the main dash plug, or at the "4wd" and "Locked" light control relay over by where you're going to mount the ecu. think it's a yellow/green wire, but check your wiring diagram.

Now what have I forgotten....

Stuff you need to fix first:

You need a first rate cooling system in first rate operating condition. If you have a 3 row core stock radiator, have it rodded at a minimum. If you have a 2 row, have a 3 row new core installed in your tanks