Rather have stuff twice than not. Thanks for chiming in.

Re the hyper-u vs. forged, I reason thus:

We aren't about high boost and wads of 7000rpm hp here, and if we have a working fuel and ignition system, shouldn't see much chance of detonation. You can fit hyper-u pistons tighter, which gives: better ring seal, less noise, longer skirt life. You can heat coat the crowns of hyper-u's to almost match the detonation resistance of a forged piston. The forged is ultimately stronger, but IMHO, hot worth the trade off. If you are building a strip or street race motor, I'd go forged, but not here in an SUV.

I tend to agree on the aftermarket efi systems. And I'll build an 88-89 system on mine on this rebuild, and go to port efi as the next mod, either MS or SDS. Have you guys ever found generic replacement injectors for the StarQ TBI?

i do agree about the pistons. as long as you guys keep under 15psi and dont have any det problems you should be fine with hypers, geting them coated burns off in a few hundred miles, waste of money in my opinion unless you are tuning an ignition system. There is a new company out with a new alloy for their forged pistons which claims you can run a closer tolerance due to this new alloy and its expansion properties so not as much cold piston slap. still looking into it. also you guys that want to run the intercooled setup you could run a non intercooled dist with less mechanical advance and maybe advance the timing a few more degrees off the go. also there is a board member that makes adjustable cam gears, another option for tuning down low. I dont know much about using the 2.6 off road, ive got a 300 I6 bronco that does me just fine and the low end torque is definately where its at so i can see why you guys want this torque beast.

Not so much in the way of generic injectors. i know a few guys who have run venom injectors in their flatsiders. 650cc injectors. probobly way cheaper then a stock replacement. I seem to remember awhile back someone modifying the injector housing but nothing that was simple from any other domestic or foreign car. I have also seen a 5.0 mustang tb mated to the manifold, might be an option and just weld two mpi injector bungs at the Y's in the runners and use mpi injectors and not these horribly inefficeint wet manifold crap. It would be easy enough to make a plate with an extra runner to a different tb in that case for even more low end. you ever considered supercharging the motor? there is a guy on one of the starion boards that super charged his quest. results were good down low but seriously lacking up top. Ive often considered a super charger running on an ac style clutch/pulley where you could disengage it after xrpms and let a turbo take over. would be very good for low rpm stuff and still pull on the highway.

I have an Eaton M62 sitting next to me right now <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />. Still trying to figure out exactly how I want to execute using it. If you have any suggestions, I'm all ears <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />.

EDIT: Out of respect for the others, I don't wanna clutter this post up so if you want respond here about the supercharger.

Reference KevinC's post on manual tranny clutch options:

The business end of the crankshaft on the StarQuest engine, where the flywheel bolts on, will have a pin coming out between two of the bolt holes. To accomodate that pin, you must use a StarQuest flywheel. The Montero flywheel does not have a mating hole.

There's a potential pitfall for ya.

That pin comes out, I switched from manual to auto in my swap and had to remove it.

Hi Eddy,
My name is Chris and I'm from Romania. I have an 89 Starion without balance shaft and jet valves. The engine is not spining more than 4k rpms. Can it be the detonation sensor, because I changed the hydraulic lifters with mechanical ones?
Where is the quartz sensor located?in the engine block? can I bypass it?
Thank you, Chris.

its on the exhaust side of the block threaded in infront of the oil filter. is it not revving past 4k exactly or does it change. That could be a few things. Check to make sure your secondary injector clip is in good condition. Check your intank filter screen (there is an access panel under the false floor in the hatch area on drivers side(disconect power first!!!) and the inline cone screen before the pump. alot of times these small screens will be come clogged and not able to provide fuel at higher rpms. If you just swapped the head maybe your timing is a tooth off. the knock sensor on later years wont restrict all that much. On 88-89 assuming you have a two port waste gate(really 3 ports) it will restrict your boost to 7.5psi and i believe will restrict your preprogramed advance but your mechanical advance and vacuum is not affected(im not sure if your vac advance runs through one of those solenoid valves or not). I got rid of all that mess.

hope this helps

matt

i forgot to add. the det sensor looks for a very small range of freq. i doubt its because your running mechanical setup and no BS's. the vibration from removing the bs's would not be in the freq range. now if your a tooth off on your cam gear or your getting pre.detonation it very well may be. If your boost has not decreased from 10.5 to 7.5 id say no(as long as your stock ignition system and boost sensor is in tact)

Well.... My first pistons were coated on the skirts. I pulled them at 14,000 miles to swap out the Total oil leak rings and the coatings were still good... Super polished at the thrust face and still working.

The best thing was no scuffing.. very good insurance during break in.

The second set of pistons I has coated on the skirts and the tops. Not sure if the ceramic on the tops really helps but it is still there after two years...

My experiance is that the skirt coatings work very well. The ceramic top coating? No proof it really helps but it has not come off.

Higher silicon forging alloys are common and allow tighter clearances but still expand more than a hyperutetcic casting alloy.

Kevin

I ran some 0 to 20 and 0 to 60 tests and found that larger diamter piping from the turbo to the intercooler and to the throtle body helped pre boost power as well as power under boost.

I have upgraded all the piping from the turbo to the throttle body to 2". I cut more than a second off on the 0 to 60 and get better throttle response.

Kevin