I have looked through my Quest FSM and cannot find details on the fuel pump connector (E24) telling me which wire is pos and neg? Nor can I find the control relay in the book. I will try to trace the lines in the Quest next...

The E-24 connector is not in the harness you have, It's in the rear harness, and is connected to the fuel pump via the B-34 (single wire in double wire connector). The control relay is referred to in the manual as the ECI control relay. The wire you want to splice to is 2-BW, a fat black wire with a white stripe that comes out of the B-30 connector at the control relay. I ran 8ga from there to the fuel pump, and grounded the fuel pump to the frame. The B-30 connector is a rect. 8 wire connector, with B, R, BR, BW (your wire), L (blue), BY, another B, and WR coming out of it. It should be within 12" of the main ecu connection on the harness.

For further info, the E-24 is a round weatherproof connector - BY is +, skinnier B is ground.

Got it. Seen all those enough now that I think I understood every bit, without looking at the truck! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> -Thx

Now I'm pissed! Just found it all in the ECI section of the FSM. And I distinctly remember seeing it before and saying to myself "remember this part..." <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

Yup. Lost it the same way myself once.

I've been doing some searching in prep for putting in the harness and thought I'd post links to two threads out there.

Talk to me Turbo Guys This one has the Monty side of the B38/B37 hookup.
Turbo wiring question (almost finished).

There are also some good links in them. One links to someone's (Liz?) "modified" wiring diagram that also shows the coil hookup.

On the throttle cable...

Rather than bend around the Quest's (twisting tubes often goes badly for me), I noticed that where the firewall flange enters the bent tube, the tube is crimped with two pin hits to holt it to the flange. I drilled out the crimps, and rotated it (two faces of the flange's hex I think) so that it is nearly in the same position as the Raider's. I then hit it on opposite sides with a small nail set to recrimp it. It felt very solid, but I threw a little JB on it anyways.

On the power steering pump...

My Raider PS hard lines were not replaced with all my other lines. Turns out they should have been. Also, I had one pump that definitely leaked, and another that was suspect. So, I in the interest of economics, I used the Quest lines and rebent them to fit, and then used the Quest pump as well.

The main difference between the pumps has been identified as the different connection ends on the HP line from the pump. The Raider is banjo and the Quest is flared. In looking at the pumps closer, they both have a fitting that looks threaded into the pump housing. I would bet that the housing has the same threads and that the fitting can be changed out. I didn't want to try in case there was an o-ring that would then need to be replaced, and since I needed the Quest flare anyways at this point.

Otherwise, if working with a donor car, it would be easier to swap the fittings and go with the Quest pump and remote resevoir, than to pull the Raider's tank off and splice a line, etc.

When making the underhood connections, make sure you use the oil sending unit wire connection from the Montero - not the one on the StarQuest harness.

The StarQuest connector is just beside the detonation sensor harness connection. Tape it off.

The one you want to use is on the part of the Monty harness that runs under the windshield washer tank. This section of wiring will still be there after you remove the entire carb harness. You will find it right near the washer tank. Mine was resting on the fender well looking lonely. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Plug it in to the sender - you got oil pressure. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Thanks to Monty McV and FastEddy for clearing these muddy waters. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

I goofed something on the B38 connector post. I edited it there, and I'll repeat it here. The correction is in [color:"red"]RED [/color]:

The B-38 connector is the graft point for the starion system into the Monty. It's on the Starion harness, and I think it lives in the Starion under the glove box, but the manuals on cd I have (88 Conquest) are missing the harness layout pages 8-36 and 8-37 (and I'd love to have a scanned copy at the best resolution you've got of those!). I do have the circuit diagrams, and here's the basic wiring you need to do. All wire color codes reference the ecu side of the B-38 connector, a male 14 pole connector. L is blue, B is black, Lg is light green and the others are evident. First letter of the color code is main wire color, second is color of tracer stripe(s)The number is the mm2 cross sectional area of the wire - bigger is fatter, no # is 1mm2 xsect. area. Orient the plug so the L (blue) wire is at the center top position. That's #4. Number l>r and t>b.

1 not used
2 2-BY Necessary - [color:"red"] wire to ign switch start position 12V+ [/color]
3 1.25-B Necessary - wire to Batt. + with fuse protection
4 2-L Necessary - wire to ign sw. On position 12v+
5 not used
6 RB necessary?? - wire to Batt 12v+ w/ fuse = amps of SQ multipurpose fuse
7 not used
8 (first of bottom row) LgB not needed - used in SQ for faking the boost pressure on the LED gauge
9 YG optional but nice to have - wire to Monty speedo reed switch circuit*
10 not used
11 2-BY Necessary - wire to ign switch start position 12V+
12 BR nice to have - trouble code output - wire a jumper wire to put it in reach, and use a voltmeter to read the trouble codes (all 6 of them)
13 not used
14 not used

If you can when you get the donor stuff, get about 6" of the hrness and the other half of the B-38 connector, so you have a plain butt splice. The old Monty carb ecu connector will have many of the various 12v+ inputs you need. Consult your Monty manual for the pin out, and you can use the ecu harness side of that connector with a few inches of wire to make the butt splices to the 6" of wire on the female half of the B-38 connector noted above.

* Try getting a pulsed 12v signal on the yellow wire at the 4wd indocator light relay box on the C-28 connector at the box on the passenger side footwell wall or the C-6 connector at the rear of the instrument cluster (on an 87 Monty) for this connection.

And what was #2 before?