Are you saying that the G54B is in the "all four" group?

2.0L + 2.1L + 2.3L + 2.4L = 4

What I mean is that you could apply some general engine knowledge to get a rough idea of where each stands. There hasn't been a great following of people to put these engines in other cars, and most stick with the 2.0L for that reason. Basically it means there isn't the kind of documentation you're asking for about power curves and such. What information that is out there is usually already highly modified with a huge turbo, aggressive cams, and so forth. What I am telling you is where the 2.0L stands and where the other engines stand in relation to it.

2.0L Power is mid range and well rounded. Not much to talk about on the low end, and falls off past 6 grand.

2.1L Power is all on the high end, meant for very large turbos requiring long spool times that need the extra RPM. Low end torque is relatively the same or less than the 2.0L.

2.3L An excellent street engine with plenty of low end torque, but sacrifices made in the high end, and lower red line.

2.4L With the most displacement, this provides more than enough torque and the quickest turbo spool.

Any kind of numbers would be a guess.

The G54B is a good engine, but many especially in the Starion/Conquest community envy the 4G63, and are tired of constant problems that arise when seriously modifying the 2.6L.

No it's not in the all four group which explains our limitations on fuel options. We are stuck with a head that won't bolt up to MPI without one off fabrication or a magna manifold swap. I am struggling with this right now, very unimpressed with the two injector setup. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" />

[color:"red"]This is a revision of the B-38 wiring splices to graft the Starion harness to the Monty wiring, changed to include the idle up signal for a/c on operation. The latest change is in [color:"blue"] blue. [/color] [/color]

The B-38 connector is the graft point for the starion system into the Monty. It's on the Starion harness, and I think it lives in the Starion under the glove box, but the manuals on cd I have (88 Conquest) are missing the harness layout pages 8-36 and 8-37 (and I'd love to have a scanned copy at the best resolution you've got of those!). I do have the circuit diagrams, and here's the basic wiring you need to do. All wire color codes reference the ecu side of the B-38 connector, a male 14 pole connector. L is blue, B is black, Lg is light green and the others are evident. First letter of the color code is main wire color, second is color of tracer stripe(s)The number is the mm2 cross sectional area of the wire - bigger is fatter, no # is 1mm2 xsect. area. Orient the plug so the L (blue) wire is at the center top position. That's #4. Number l>r and t>b.

1 not used
2 2-BY Necessary - wire to ign switch start position 12V+
3 1.25-B Necessary - wire to Batt. + with fuse protection
4 2-L Necessary - wire to ign sw. On position 12v+
5 not used
6 RB necessary?? - wire to Batt 12v+ w/ fuse = amps of SQ multipurpose fuse
7 [color:"blue"]BW - ac on signal for idle up - wire to compressor power wire or any wire that's hot when a/c is on [/color]
8 (first of bottom row) LgB not needed - used in SQ for faking the boost pressure on the LED gauge
9 YG optional but nice to have - wire to Monty speedo reed switch circuit*
10 not used
11 2-BY Necessary - wire to ign switch start position 12V+
12 BR nice to have - trouble code output - wire a jumper wire to put it in reach, and use a voltmeter to read the trouble codes (all 6 of them)
13 not used
14 not used

If you can when you get the donor stuff, get about 6" of the hrness and the other half of the B-38 connector, so you have a plain butt splice. The old Monty carb ecu connector will have many of the various 12v+ inputs you need. Consult your Monty manual for the pin out, and you can use the ecu harness side of that connector with a few inches of wire to make the butt splices to the 6" of wire on the female half of the B-38 connector noted above.

* Try getting a pulsed 12v signal on the yellow wire at the 4wd indocator light relay box on the C-28 connector at the box on the passenger side footwell wall or the C-6 connector at the rear of the instrument cluster (on an 87 Monty) for this connection.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> One more thing to add to my long list of junk to do on that Montero.

Thanks Eddy.

Brendan

thank Roll Me over, too. He promted me to look at something I never considered, because my air died just after the turbo conversion, and a/c idle never became a problem, just excess interior humidity from my sweat...

Back from the depths of reality and other more pressing automotive projects with a years worth of experience with the turbo swap.

When I first did the swap I stuck with the completely stock 88 Montero bottom end and just dropped a Starion head on it but didn't use an intercooler. Running 7 psi on 91 octane things were good unless the weather turned warm or I stayed in the turbo too long, then I started having detonation problems between 3 inches vaccum and 1 psi. Growing tired of dancing around this throttle range, I swapped motors with my 87 Starion. My Starion's motor has been worked over so I drove around running 15 psi on the thing with 91 octane, still non-IC'd, without a care in the world until I noticed how little gas milage I was getting. Swapped the motors once more, so the Starion motor is in the Starion and the Monty motor is in the Monty. Re-gained my lost 3-4mpg as well as my detonation problems.

Long story short: If you're going turbo, make sure you have an intercooler to go with it.

Intercooler YES!

Cooler air is denser = more air to the cylinder.
Cooler air keeps the fuel/air further below the dreaded autoignition point.

I plan to go one step further, with an a/c refrigerant chilled water/air intercooler.

AC tech wizard help needed here. Can't I set up the a/c compressor to cycle to charge and accumulator, which bleeds freon to the intercooler refrigerant heat exchanger core in the water jacket of the h20 i/c on demand from a 34*F control (type?). AC compressor cycles on demand from a pressure switch (??) in the accumulator. Check vavle in feed to accumulator from compressor. Need some kind of switched isolation of cabin evaporator from freon pressurization for i/c cycling (electrovalves for ac available??). One minor advantage is the elimination of the absolute requirement for an auxillary water cooling circuit (thermoswitch, aux radiator, pump, plumbing). Might be nice to have for backup if the ac quit, though...

I guess you could even use another refrigerant heat exchanger in the radiator bottom tank that only kicks in when you have an overheat, kind of a boosted cooling system. Couldn't run it all the time, because it would probably cook itself on waste heat from inefficiecy, but for short shots to save the head or mountain pass 65mph blasts with the 3k lb. boat behind you......

Even without the wizardry Eddie's talking about (some damn fine thoughts by the way), the 86-89 Starion engines were designed to run with IC and I can personally vouch for the fact that the engine will run better with it than without.

The cooler itself will fit neatly behind the front skid plate and a V6 ventilated plate is recommended. As soon as I find one in a yard, I'll change over. Gotta love a bolt-up mod.

Piping a stock Starion IC (in its stock configuration) is a real PITA, but it can be done. I know. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> A better plan is to alter those cursed cross pipes to have an outlet on either side so you can utilize some of the space on the LH (driver's) side of the engine compartment. Forced Air Montero, KevinC and, I believe, Monty McV have done this and probably had far fewer fits of using swear words during installation than I. And, let's not forget hard piping. That'll get that air flowing freely.

The real problem arises in trying to stuff the air can (and related hoses and tubes), turbo (and related piping), oil cooler hoses and everything else into the relatively small space on the RH side of the engine compartment. - AND you still need to get to the oil filter and dip stick.

But, not to get too far off topic, your engine will love you - and reward you handsomely - for using the intercooler. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Ed

My I/C still routes both pipes to the PS, but I did have the outlet pipes on the I/C repositioned for their "aim" a little.

Ed is right on cramming all into the left side of the engine bay. Mine do all fit, barely. The one thing I will be doing is moving the charcoal cannister over to the DS fenderwall where there is more room.