I would suggest you stop your offensive behaviour. Phil will be along shortly to clean this mess up. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Just an update. I just tightened my wastegate actuator today and I am officially on 1 bar of boost with the s16G! Woo- Hoo!!!

well that is just awesome to know that i am not the only person with a play truck. i too have a mighty max with a starion or conquest engine in it. it is a great deal of fun isnt it? mine was done the year after the truck was purchased in 1985. but none the less i have a pickup that no one suspects for a tire killing machine. i have fun.

also for any one that needs info or help let me know. i also have a spare engine and an intercooler and such. and it is not hard to pull around 400 ponies out of the ol mitsubishi motor either. the 2.6 was the building block for the lancer evolution. so there are plenty of options. hp performance is on that deals more with starion/ conquest engines. and yes the 88-89 is the best more because of the computer than the engine. either way you slice it its an awesome idea. my truck was built the 1st time by ken ellis sr. awesome ol boy that knows what he is doing.

Seems this would be appropriate information for this thread since now that we've got all this new found power in our rigs...

What all are we using for transmissions and what issues 'n fixes have we found?

I've seen one thread talk about the manuals puking input shaft bearings on a regular basis and another thread talk about using different torque converters in the autos to reduce slippage and heat...

First m/t: non-rebuilt 85pu tranny behind the 85 conquest engine at stock boost. Tranny got a little noisy and shifter got real sloppy, and floppy under on/off the gas. Cruising fairly level highway, and tranny blew in 5th. Lost all gears but 4th. Parked it. Tranny had pounded out a mainshaft spacer, letting main shaft walk fore and aft, and it ate the inputshaft/mainshaft bearings, and mainshaft became so sloppy you couldn't get an indirect gear engaged. I am told that you can use the tranny internals from an 88-89 starquest to beef up the m/t with good success, but I don't offhand know of anybody who's actually done it. I never did it because the a/t turned out to be so much better for me...

Swapped motor into 87swb a/t nonlockup. Worked just fine, and the only problem was when I broke the oil pump gear in the tranny by not socking the converter in all the way before I mated the motor. Me dumb. Rebuild horror story. Me dumb again. Bought jy tranny and tcase for $300 and installed same. ran fine til I blew the motor, some 50k+ miles. needed a lockup converter tranny from a 90-91 v6 to be perfect. I think the lockup a/t is perfect for the turbo motor in the truck. You use the whole v6 tranny with the 4cyl bellhousing.

I had to have my M/T rebuilt shortly after getting the turbo engine running correctly. I spec'ed Starion replacement hardware and paid someone else to install. It's held up fine so far.

Couple of caveats: First, the tranny guy may not have sourced what I spec'ed, but I suspect he did - truthful sort.

Second, I don't drive it like I'm going to put out a fire most of the time.

I got 190,000+ miles out of the original M/T.

This is quoted from way back at the beginning of the thread. Note that the 88 Conquest FSM I have is also missing those pages.

However, the 88 Starion FSM does have pages 8-36 and 8-37. Kind of old news maybe, but thought I'd update nonetheless.

The ecu harness side of the 87 b38 connector (10 slot, 5x5) connections are as follows, catch up, 1-5 top row, 6-10 bottom row: (the number, like 2 or 1.25, in front of the letter color code are the xsect area of the conductor, the bigger the fatter)

1> empty and not used
2> 2BY (fat black yellow stripe #2) ground this terminal for m/t and wire to NSS in a/t
3> 1.25B (med fat black) constant 12v+ from battery
4> 2L (fat blue) wire to 12v+ ign. on
5> epmty and not used
6> LgB (Light Green with black stripe avg size) nice but not necessary - can hook to reed switch in speedo or 4wd light controller end of same wire
7> YG (yellow green stripe) not used in transplant-fake boost gauge wire
8> empty and not used
9> 2BY (fat black yellow stripe #1) wire to 12v+ ign start position
10> BR (avg black with red stripe) ecu codes output wire - extend to within easy inside the cab reach and read with a circuit tester light for codes 1 to 6.

Don't know if this will help anyone, but I got sick of looking at the 3 pages of spaghetti in the service manual so I drew this up and printed it out for reference when I wired up my truck. I'm pretty sure it's correct (my trucks runs <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> ) but I'll make changes if anyone finds an error.