You are fortunate. Mine got washed regularly and sprayed with various lubes and still seized. I only had them on for just over a year. If special maintenance is required to keep them functional for more than a short period of time, then some directions should be provided by SAW. If seizing is inevitable in cold climates where corrosion is more severe, then SAW should at least let prospective buyers know it's an issue. I like my SAWs and hope to work this out.

My SAW's were originally purchased in April, 2001, so they are the oldest version of SAW's out there. Scott Yoder's are probably the same original design. SAW has made several minor changes to their design - one of them being the threaded ring and how you tighten the screw to keep the ring from moving. Mine (and I'm guessing Scott's) have a vertical cut through the ring. They have a bolt that spans across the cut to tighten the ring around the shock so it won't move. Neither mine nor Scott's have seized. But this design can be extremely difficult to turn on the shock even when new, especially if you're pulling on the spanner wrench when it's in the hole immediately next to the cut in the ring. The edge of the ring seems to dig into the shock. But the cut in the ring seems to also be able to allow the ring to be pulled away from the shock body to prevent seizing.

Maybe 2 years ago, SAW started making the ring without the vertical cut, but instead with a screw that gets tightened into the threads in the side of the shock body. I know Darren has that newer design. It's significantly easier to thread higher when it's new. But I'm guessing maybe the newer design without the cut will seize easier? I don't know... just a thought.

A good thought. With the split collar there is room to relieve tension across the thread. With the solid collar there is constant contact. Adding to either of those conditions is the fact that if the spring isn't unloaded in some way there will be a loaded surface of the thread on the shock body. When adjusting aluminum threaded components lots of lube is best. Sloppy amounts is optimum.

Mike

I have been watching this thread for a while now and I feel inclined to post any relevant info. on this topic I have.

As far as the collar designs go, I like the idea of the split collar (in theory) because it doesn't risk damaging the threads with a set-screw, but I prefer the set-screw design because it allows for more adjustment holes in the collar, making it much easier to reach a hole with the spanner when the shock is installed. Both designs are commonly used by multiple manufacturers and there is no clear winner.

As far as the collars seizing, I agree that lot's of lube (heavy bearing type grease, not wd-40 which isn't really a lube as much as it is a degreaser) from day 1 is a good call for people in nasty climates, especially where roads get salted in the winter. It is no secret that water+salt+aluminum=corrosion. My last bit of advice is to please remember that heims (in this application) are race inspired technology that has trickled down to the consumer aftermarket and the increased performance comes with a small price. They do have a shelf life, and how long that will be depends heavily on the type of usage they see and the elements they are subjected to. I would suggest replacing them once a year or every other year to be safe. Also uni-balls need to be inspected and periodically replaced, after all they are basically a huge heim. So those of you with uni-ball a-arms keep that in mind.

Sway-A-Way bolt-in coil-overs are a great product and like any performance part you install on your vehicle, they can require maintneance. The amount and frequency of maintenance can vary drastically from one user to the next therefore it would be hard for Sway-A-Way to recommend a set maintenance schedule. Sway-A-Way has done nothing exceptionally (or even minorly) wrong as far as I can tell by not notifying customers about possible corrosion and heim life span. I hope this thread doesn't turn potential customers who might really enjoy these shocks away from a great product.

-Sean
http:///www.trailslesstraveled.com

Yup, I have the split collar. Good call Jeff, that's exactly why they don't seize. And yes, they are hard to tighten with the spanner wrench. Especially at that one spot.

I agree, I should just replace my heim's. After years of use they have simply worn out a little. As I expected they are squeaking again, a week after I used the lithium grease.

I must say, overall I have no complaints with my SAW's after several years of use.

I just bought my replacement lower heims from www.kartek.com for $14 each. The replacements don't include anything but the heim, so you have to re-use the snap-rings. Hopefully they won't shoot across the garage. The guy at Kartek said it's an easy press-fit with a vice.

I am glad this is turning out to be not a very big (or expensive!) deal.

-Sean
http://trailslesstraveled.com

Have you got yours yet Jeff? I just ordered mine from Lee at RaceShock in Pheonix.
http://www.raceshock.com/

He said you put them in the freezer overnight to shrink them a little. Then fish the slinky type snap ring out. Then use a socket to push the old one out and the new one in.

Cool. Sounds like great advice. Thanks.

Yes, I have the heim replacements, but they won't be put in place for a while. I literally stopped by and picked them up from Kartek in CA when I was on a business trip near there.