Ok then here is the first test..
Put the Jeep on a slight side-to-side slope.. This is to get the radiator fill cap slightly higher than the "other" side of the radiator. So with the cap off you can fill the radiator to completely full into the neck of the filler.
Now fill it completely and start the engine.
The fluid level may decrease with the engine running if so fill it to the top. As the engine warms the fluid may grow in size a little. What we will be looking for are BUBBLES if you have a compression leak the BUBBLES will be coming to the top in a few moments. If the jeep radiator is not placed out of level you will not be able to see them as they will not have to come out of the fill tube to get into the free air.
After a few you will see a steady stream of small BUBBLES. When done correctly you will see the BUBBLES every time.
Big Jim

actually, there is a kit u can get in the states (not sure about the UN-states) that you use to get a sample of the rad. fluid when hot and run it through a chemical check. when the head/gasket leaks, the fluid gets basic (or acidic, too late too remember) from the exhuast gasses. you put this thing where the cap goes and hodl it down the get the motor warm. you put a little bit of the chemical chekcer in it and if it turns color, you have exhuast gasses in the rad. which means bad gasket or head. if you can find the kit it will come with much better instructions.

Here is a link to the thingy of which sunder speaks. Block/Combustion Leak Tester

thanks JeePete <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

I know it's kinda obvious, but have you tried any stop leak? I've had good luck with Bars stopleak, cause that's what my buddies have at their shop for free.
I had a pretty good leak going, and guessed it was an intake leak on my old 350 burban and had good luck with Justice Brothers Radiator Stop Leak. Read and follow the directions, 'cause I didn't and had to do it again. I drove the old 'burb another 20k miles and ended up selling it (reads: new wife no drivey-drive rusty burbans). After I used that stuff I did not use coolant in bulk again, but remembered to warn the new owner about it. I haven't tried it in my jeep yet as I don't drive it daily but probably should listen to my own advice...but adding water/coolant is cheap, especially when it's free <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

hey....thanks to all, once again. i'm gonna pull the head tomorrow. the heat situation is getting worse, and it can be nothing, i am now convinced but what we've been talking about. got a good mechanic who is gonna let me use his shop to do the work myself for 1/2 price what he would charge....comes down to 880 pesos, or about $90 USD. he will be there to help me with the torque wrench and such as i don't have one. milling and magnafluxing.....30 USD, gaskets.....about 25 USD....not bad. I'll tell you what I find, Okay....Rob

FIFTY DOLLARS!!! Damn! That seems like throwing your money right up a dead dogs ass. Hey if it's squirtin steam and such out the overflow there ain't many things it could be. And most of them could be renewed with that same FIFTY DOLLARS. But, I guess there are lots of folks that just have to be sure before they start pulling stuff.
Big Jim <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

well, in all fairness, that 50 bucks is like almost a week's work here. i'm livin on mexican wages. i came here to relax and enjoy life, not get rich. haha. rob <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

I agree, I didn't reccomend getting one, just looked it up after sunder mentioned it. I had never heard of it before.

ya.. i was doin my labor calc. for US rates.... specifically the [email]a@@[/email] pounder rates of CA.

if you can do everything cheeper than buying the kit and getting it imported.....