A big challenge for me, and likely for your pickup, was fitting the engine and accessories between the front bulkhead and firewall... plan on modifying one or both, and see my suggestions above about running shorter accessory dress packages. In going with a carb, you're simplifying a whole lotta wiring that was probably the toughest thing for me to work with. EEC-IV is a great system, but it isn't simple to set up.

Ask specific questions, and I'll do my best to provide specific answers...

Randii

Yea fitting it in there will definately be tricky and I will be certainly taking your advice on the dress package Im also gonna be running the carb, like you said the wiring would be a nightmare haha

For specifics my main concern right now is, do they make an isuzu-to-ford engine mounts or did you fab up something yourself? Also are you running the auto or manual tranny and which would be easier? What are you going to be running driveshaft and rear end wise?

Thanks,
Tim

No, but universal weld-on Ford mounts are easily avaiable from a variety of online sources and race shops so you don't have to make your own from scratch.



More a personal preference than which is "easier". I would say an auto is probably "easier" because the shift linkage is remotely mounted and there is no clutch linkage to deal with.



driveshafts will be an after thought.... rear axle choice is another decussion. depends on what you're after. stock axles could stand up well enough depending on what you're doing.



Though I haven't broken ground yet like Randii (and undoubtly won't for some time), I have been gathering parts and plan on putting in an EFI 302 from an '86 t-bird into my Rodeo. It will be backed by a C6 automatic running an NP203-NP205 doubler tcase setup. This is all mating to my existing D60/14bff axle combination for a stout (and heavy) 1-ton running gear.

-Rob

I fabbed all my own brackets, but there is a company in Canada that manufacturers bolt-in brackets, Ultimate Customs, or something like that. It is linked in the thread up top that jezeric linked to... I have no idea where the motor winds up front-to-back with those brackets, so be prepared for anything.

I'm running a Toyota R151F Turbo tranny, which is a manual 5-speed, and allows fitment of Toyota transfer cases for which many low priced gear solutions exist. It would probably be easier to run an automatic tranny, since there is less involved in setting up the shifter. This mostly depends on preference -- some folks love autos, other love manuals.

I'm running Toyota drivelines at both ends -- these bolt right up to my transfer case and there's an Isuzu/Toyota interchange yoke that adapts Isuzu yokes pretty easily to the Toyota U-joint. The shafts feed power to a Toyota mini-truck front end and a stock Isuzu 12-bolt rear-end.

Randii

Geez Randii, that post was so long ago, I had to go back in the thread and see just what I'd said. I knew I was useful once upon a time! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

James

So Randii... what's the story on this jewell:



Greg

Simple, Greg.
1.) Start with a small block ford McLeod scattershield (it has the bolt pattern I wanted on the engine side and an expansive flat just waiting to be drilled on the tranny side).
2.) Remove the input retainer from the Toyota R151F Turbo tranny (reveals the input bearing)
3.) Turn an alignment puck on the lathe that indexes its inner diameter on the R151F input bearing and its outer diameter on the inner diameter of the McLeod bell.
4.) Precision-bore dowel holes through the bell to match the dowels on the front of the R151F
5.) Transfer-punch and drill bolt holes through the bell to match the dowels on the front of the R151F
6.) Cut the profile of the input retainer from the R151F into back of McLeod bell
7.) Assemble, adapting spacing front-to-back to make the clutch throw work

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> Well, I'm simplifying a bit. No time to post right now, but I'll try to scrounge up one of my more verbose descriptions of the process later. Really, the only trick above is starting with a bell that indexes off a round input retainer, and popping the input retainer off the tranny to get to a bearing that indexes off the mainshaft. Once you've got these, you can align the axis of the engine crank and tranny mainshaft, and with a machined flat on the tranny and a ground flat on the bell, everything falls in place. Precision-bore the dowels and you maintain the alignment, and from there it is just piddling with the clutch.

Randii