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Body Lift Questions #476157 07/14/04 05:22 AM
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 52
dankman Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
hey all...it's been a while...

finally got my 2" BL, fit 33 bfg at's on my 96 t100 4x4 5spd...
a few questions, i tried searching but ended up looking and getting lost in other posts...so much info!

1. rear bumper...is there some type of bracket to raise it up so it looks normal?
2. rear hitch...someone one here modified theirs also raising it, tucking it up...how's that done?
3. i now notice warm (hot) air blowing through the shift boot. how to stop?

i have lots more but i'll keep searching for now...


1996 T100 4X4 on 33" BFG ATs, 2" BL, 5 spd
Re: Body Lift Questions [Re: dankman] #476158 07/14/04 06:53 AM
Anonymous
Unregistered
I can answer #3....I just pushed the shift boot down a little and it kinda inverted itself around the stick. The boot wrapped itself around the stick...im finding its hard to explain.....sorry if i am no help...anyway, it stopped the hot air from coming out....i did the same to the 4wd shifter.

Re: Body Lift Questions [Re: dankman] #476159 07/14/04 09:55 AM
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,921
4
4xGeek Offline
Body Damage is Cool
Flip the bumper bracket for about 2"... Flip the hitch bracket (if you can...?) or fab up a new set. Who knows, you may be able to buy a different bracket if it's from a major company (ie - HiddenHitch, etc...). As for the boot, if it's all stretched out at the neck yank it & put in a different one... I used a black boot intended for a Camaro. Works just fine. If I ever went for leather seats I'd probably switch it out with one for a gen3 runner... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />


4xGeek (Chris)
'97 T-100 4wd sr5-suto, 3" BL, 1.5" BJ spacers, 35" ProComp AT's, 4.88's, Bilsteins x 6, etc...

No longer stuck in SoCal!! smile
Re: Body Lift Questions [Re: dankman] #476160 07/14/04 03:00 PM
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 158
T
T-Rex Offline
Wheeler
Not sure about #2, but I'll try on #1 and #3.

#1...If you look at the rear bumper brackets on how it's mounted to the frame, there are 2 identical holes that are 2" higher than stock. All you'll need to do is to unbolt the current location and move it up 2" higher. Perfect fit as if the factory had intended for doing a 2" body lift. At least on my '95, there were no need to flip the bumper bracket.

#3...There should be 2 shift boots. The one inside is black, and the one outside is the same color as the interior of your truck (mine is blue, I think?). Anyway, I placed the inside (black) boot upside down, and the outside boot, I had to trim the top off in order to make it work. As for extra heat and sound, I just wrapped and stuffed an old sock around the shifter. The sock is soft enough so as not to bind in shifting, and it absorbs some of the heat and sound. Not pretty, but it works for now.

Another problem for me is the hole I had enlarged at the firewall, where the steering rod goes through. There are definitely heat coming through, especially in the hot TX summer. Still not sure what's the best way to cover the hole as I don't want to bind the steering rod in anyway. Thought about using an old bicycle inner tube, and cut and glue the circumference of the hole. One of the many To-Do list for the fall/winter time.


02 Tacoma Double Cab TRD Prerunner .. just added 3" lift .. more to come
Re: Body Lift Questions [Re: T-Rex] #476161 07/14/04 03:47 PM
Anonymous
Unregistered
yeah i forgot about the steering rod hole...that does suck...

Re: Body Lift Questions [Re: dankman] #476162 07/14/04 04:04 PM
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 353
Brew Offline
Mudrunner
I did or more correctly a mechanic friend of mine did the rear hitch mod on my '98. It involved cutting two inches out of the vertically-oriented plates with a sawzall and then rewelding. We did end up having to weld each plate at one of the three attachment bolt locations to the crossbar(Horizontal) This attachment hole would have been obscured by the bumper bracket when the hitch got moved up however the other two still use the OEM nuts and bolts. I then POR-15'd the whole thing and remounted to the frame. Initially I was going to have new plates fabbed but his solution and the sawzall made it SO much simpler. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

We also relocated the spare tire hanger brackets out an inch in either direction, IIRC using existing holes, to make room for the 33" spare. Brew


98 T100 SR5 4x4 3.4L auto, TRD Goodies, Bilsteins, engine/TC skids, 2" body/d.train lifts, F/R ARBs, 4.56 R&Ps, Aisin hubs, 255/85R16 Dunlop Rover RVXTs (street), 16x7 +8mm offset wheels, custom bumpers, Warn M8000, Master-pull synth. line
Re: Body Lift Questions [Re: dankman] #476163 07/14/04 05:10 PM
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 52
dankman Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
okay thanks..i'll try the flip the brackets thing but it looks like it might make it too high...and there's no higher set of holes to use...(that i can spot)
the hitch thing..i'll try to see if a cut and weld would work...doesn't that mess with the strength? i don't plan on towing anything heavier that a tent trailer or a trailer with a few dirt bikes...
i'll try messing with the shift boot...i read something about using a short shifter...would one from a v6 taco work? (i'm also experiencing a little binding in 2nd - like the shift boot is holding it back)...
the drive train lift...what's that all about? would does that help out exactly and how hard to instal?
again, thanks all...


1996 T100 4X4 on 33" BFG ATs, 2" BL, 5 spd
Re: Body Lift Questions [Re: dankman] #476164 07/14/04 05:47 PM
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 353
Brew Offline
Mudrunner
I'm not an expert on metalurgy but was told that his welds are stonger than the metal he rejoined and since it was only rated for 5500lbs , I am taking him at his word. I haven't pulled a load yet but I trust him as he is a personal friend. He is also the owner of his own automotive service (past 16 years) and would never knowingly do anything unsafe on a customer's vehicle. Brew

p.s. - Do a search on drivetrain lift and you'll find lots of info. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />


98 T100 SR5 4x4 3.4L auto, TRD Goodies, Bilsteins, engine/TC skids, 2" body/d.train lifts, F/R ARBs, 4.56 R&Ps, Aisin hubs, 255/85R16 Dunlop Rover RVXTs (street), 16x7 +8mm offset wheels, custom bumpers, Warn M8000, Master-pull synth. line
Re: Body Lift Questions [Re: dankman] #476165 07/14/04 06:42 PM
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,466
S
surlynkid Offline
Roll Me Over
flip the bumper brackets for 3" BL. use the extra set of holes for 2". i have attached a pic from erik's site. i have the custom modified 2" lift hitch. i will sell it for $50 since I have a new rear bumper with integral hitch.

[Linked Image]


Scott Landon
1995 T100 - total buildup underway
1988 4Runner (22RE, W56) - new DD
2005 Dodge CTD 4x4 - Tow Beast
1990 Spec Miata
2010 GT3
2013 E92 M3
Re: Body Lift Questions [Re: surlynkid] #476166 07/14/04 07:02 PM
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 52
dankman Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
ahhh, i understand now with the extra set of holes for the back bumper...thanks...

and the modded hitch...you still have it for sale? that would work with mine? i'd buy it if the shipping isn't too outrageous...can you check? my zip is 92833 if you can...


1996 T100 4X4 on 33" BFG ATs, 2" BL, 5 spd
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