Does anyone here run 33x12.50's on 15x10 wheels?
I have stock 4:56 gears, upon putting 33's will i need to re-gear?
Are 15x8 wheels a better combination with 33x12.50 or 15x10 on 33x12.50's?
Thanks in advance. Eric.

I'm running 33x9.5s with stock gears (4.56 most likely, or possibly 4.88, I haven't checked.) and wheels. There's no need to change gears if you're staying on the road most of the time.

Watch the clearance, though. If you don't get more width on the front axles I'm guessing you'll probably have some _serious_ rubbing going on, especially when you go around a corner. With the 9.5's I am having a little bit of rubbing with full articulation on corners. But that's rare, right? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/coolg.gif" alt="" /> Just gotta watch it.
Someone else could comment on whether it's different on your '85 p/u than my '93 4runner for clearance width.

I haven't tried airing down to see how well the tires stay on the wheels, nor have I done a *lot* of trail driving since I put these on, mostly hill climbs, but I had no problems. I would think the 9.5's stay on the wheels better at low pressures than 12.5's.

15x8's are ideal for 33x12.5's from my understanding.. You realy don't need to go with 15x10's, but it will work of course..
You shouldn't have to worry about regearing since you already have the 4:56's, best bet is to put the 33's on and see for yourself.. Im running 31's on 4.10's with 22re and I have no desire what-so-ever to regear (Overall ratio should be the similar with 33's on 4.56's)

Personally speaking... if its not underpowered then stay stock but if not like the old saying goes

4.88's for 33's
5.29's for 35's

and so on..

or if you're Zuk go 5.71 with 33's <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Seriously though, I have 33's and 4.88's and it's a good combo for around town, but I sometimes wish I had 4.56's on the highway, the engine screams if I go over 75! It's all a matter of taste though, just try it out and you can regear later if you so desire.

I run 33x12.50's on a 15x8 rim and like it alot, the extra width on the tire helps keep the bead when aired down. Just remember to run less pressure on the road (I run ~27 psi) to prevent the center of the tire from wearing faster. You may also want to look into a 33x10.50, they're a bit cheaper and fit nicely on a 15x7 or 15x8" rim.

Hey Candido, manual or auto tranny? Is this for your Taco? Stock 4.56's I would assume auto.

I ran 33's w/4.56's for more than 4 years w/ manual tranny. Personal perference, but I like the lower RPM's on the highway. Now I'm running 35's w/4.88's. And the speedo is pretty close since MTR's are not a true 35" tire.

Lots of guys running both 15X8's and 15X10's with a 12.5" wide tire. Lots depends on tire pressure. 15X8's hold the bead better and are better for trail conditions. 15X10's are generally better for the highway with better tire wear.

Hey guys thanks for all the input and opinions,
so for trailriding a 15X8 is a better performer, but a 15x10 is better for highway driving?
Assuming i go with the 15x10 will i have any rubbing if i have the 4" superlift + 1.5" bodylift? with the 15x8"? does anyone here know?
P.S. Candido (a.k.a. CTapia)is my older brother, Im the one with the 89 toyota pickup 5 speed v6.

On the wider wheel, the tread will sit flatter on the road and give you better wear. Also, the sidewalls will be more vertical instead of bulging out so cornering will be better. Off-road the narrow wheel is better for the reasons mentioned above.

That combination probably will fit OK, depending on the backspacing of the wheels. If your lift requires a 3.5"-3.75" backspace wheel, you might find some rubbing. I know a 3.5" b/s 15x8 w/ 33x12.50 tires rubs w/ 4" IFS lift and no body lift, adding 2" body lift fixed that problem.

Go 15x8. If you ever get into serious wheeling later on, the tire stays on the narrower rim much more happily when at low pressure, since the beads are pinched together more.

I run 38.5x14.50s on 15x8 wheels, and I love the combo. Never lost a bead at these pressures:

The type of tire also has to do with keeping the tire on the rim as well as the width of the tire and the rim. If you are going to run an MT than the the 15x8" rim will be better than the 10". If you are going to run an AT or a softer sidewalled MT like the Xterrain, than you will want the 10" rim. I ran an 8" rim for years with 31's and 32's AT's MT's and never lost a bead, even when aired down to 2psi. Went to the 33" AT's on the 8's and just about blew a bead every other timne out, sometimes 2 beads on the same run. Since moving to a 10 rim, I haven't lost a bead in the last 6 yrs. A buddy of mine had the same problem running Xterrains on 8" rims, he would loose a bead on everyrun, now he runs bead locks. All in all a blown bead on the trail isn't a big deal, even if you loose both. You just jack up the truck and hit it with your onboard air and you are on your way.

As far as the 4.56's you should be O.K., providing your truck is still near the stock weight, you are only 2 tire sizes over stock. 4.88's will give you better mpg and trail performance. With my '90 3,0 on the highway at 80 mph the tach is at 3300, and at 70(where I tend to keep it) it is running at 2800.