Does anyone know if someone makes a bigger airflow meter for the 3.0. I've asked the local 4x4 shops and they all thought I was on crack. Any help would be great.


Thanks

i've heard and seen write ups of doing like a Supra meter, or a Lexus air meter on the supra. I also have a 3.0 and find that AFM the restricting point, but don't see the bennefits of changing it to outway the work involved. Toyota is using it for a reason. leave it. I just made my own intake out of 3" MANDREL bent pipe, and dropped a KN in it, and will soon get a ARB snorkel. Done, and reliable.

I have a cressida AFM from a 5M but the one I have is defective Im looking for another to try. The 82 supra also had a larger one with 3" inlet and outlet (perfect for those cone filter guys). I read a review where some one had used an 82 supra one on thier early 90's 22R and it worked perfectly.

here is the thread.. http://bbs.off-road.com/ubbthreads/...=1084336&Search=true#Post1084336

I sure wish I knew how to make that shorter and maybe rename it.

well i have an 84 supra, and it had the same looking AFM as that one in the pics of that link's link. I currently do not have a MK2 supra AFM, my supra runs a standalone sys... however, now this has sparked me to think of something like this. if the connector is the same...:). but this makes no sense.. b/c the mk2 supras have 2.8L I6's. mine is a V6 3.0.... so you'd think the bigger engine has the bigger AFM. But, if i can get a Supra AFM, and boost some HP..:) we really need to work on this guys. I'm determined to help. I'm gonna pull my '84 supra "TOYOTA" manual out and it shows the pin out of the AFM and what it is, and values to check it etc. I'll get on that ASAP tomorrow. I'm also gonna pick up an AFM off an MK2 from the junk yard and 98% sure I can make this work. Also, the mk2 AFM is "adjustable" to a degree. I adjusted mine 4 teeth internally due to the mods I had..ran better. Let's figure out how to put a "large" AFM on the 90-95 3.0V6. that's the goal.

I did the home work on the pin out and its the same heck it plugs right in even. The only problem I have is that the one I bought is dead or well dead for the 1st 30% of the vane travel. I think with a A/F meter one could probably have one working with no problems provided the AFM has some adjustability like the smaller one does. If I had one to work with that actually functioned Id be running it now.

The one I bought was off a cresside with a 5M. The cressida airbox even looks the same but when I purchased the top along with the afm I found out it was actually too tall even thought it fit properly after a few mods. Once it was mounted to the top of the 3.0 air box I was unable to get my hood to close fully <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> . Once I knew the AFM was defective I didnt bother trying to make it fit any more. I may actually take the broken one apart and do some part swapping with my extra stock 3.0 AFM.

Tiny URL (http://www.tinyurl.com) will shorten it -- it's your friend, and it's free

-Jeff

Here's the deal: the circuit board inside the AFM is matched to each engine's air flow.

Toyota used the larger bodied AFM on some motors and not on others, even though the combined injector flow rate was similar when totaled. For example, the 5MGE Supras and Cressidas use six 195 cc/min injectors for a total flow of 1170 cc/min. These motors got the larger AFM. The 22RTE, on the other hand, uses four 295 cc/min injectors, for a total flow of 1180 cc/min, and this motor got the smaller AFM.

Another wrinkle: the only large bodied AFM that can be considered plug and play is the AFM used on the 1982 5MGE Supra (and maybe the Cressida from the same year, but definitely the Supra). The reason is that the 1982 Supra's air flow meter produced an output signal that went from low -> high (~2V-~8V). The 1983 and later 5MGE AFMs look identical, but their internal electronics produce a signal that goes from high -> low. This is obviously a bad idea on a motor that originally used an AFM with an oppositely oriented signal, as it will go full lean at WOT.

If you are committed to doing this swap, the solution is to use the larger bodied AFM and swap over the traceboard (aka, the resistor, PCB, etc.) from your current motor. It isn't perfect, but it's about as good as you can do.

Finally, keep in mind that the small bodied AFM is only a restriction if you are saturating it at WOT. Because the AFM measures air and the ECU is calibrated to associate a given "AFM vane angle" with a particular amount of air flow, switching to an AFM that will flow 20% more air for a given vane angle (which is approximately what the 5MGE AFM will do) can only be supported if you also switch to larger injectors AND tighten the spring on the AFM (1 tooth = about a 2% reduction in fuel). Just switching to a larger AFM and not re-tuning will only serve to lean out your mixture. Once you re-tune, you are still back in the same boat, as the motor should only need x amount of air at a given engine load, regardless of AFM door size. Again, a larger AFM is only a benefit is you exceed the flow capacity of the stock AFM. It takes about 160-170 rwhp to reach this level of air flow, and you're probably not going to see that unless you are using a turbo.

Just some things to chew on...

-Jeff