the junctions are 2.75" to 3" hump hose adapters (these get heavy use in large diesel engines) designed to move when the engine twists. I thought thay where a nice addition since just about every home grown intake I have seen so far uses 3" radiator hose with some sort of bushing. I will probably switch the one connected to the AFM to radiator hose when I put a larger AFM in with a 3" OD inlet.
I did away with the stupid air injection system for the exhaust. It was kinda unsanitary with the headers and made my truck sound like a diesel (very loude after headers) aside from floating around a bit as well. the EGR valve was causing me a big stumble about 3k RPMs and I only run super so there is no detonation problems. Once I took those 2 items off then the extra openings (including the 1" one) on the stock intake and air box baggage was no longer needed.
The Air box mod is to reduce any resistance that may be caused by having the plastic tube behind the headlight being a limiting factor for air induction. I have looked at all the other other different types of air box mods including drilling the crap out of the bottom,Putting in a deck plate and even the all too usless K+N cone filter sucking hot air from under the hood. Im not concerned about water as there is a drain hole in the bottom of the air box and I dont feel the need to wheel heavily yet. Its not the only source of air its actually a smaller secondary source to the one mounted behind the head light so the actual amount of vacuum on that smaller tube is minimal except under hard acceleration at WOT. I decided to put it in when I was doing some tuning and noticed when I was accelerating the engine rapidly it was having a substantial affect on the air box and also the little tube behind the head light due to the amount of vacuum being generated.
I spent alot of time porting my upper and lower intake along with getting ported and polished heads and performance cams. I also use downey headers and a 2.5" exh from the headers on back including a 2.5" cat and a flowmaster 40 series.
My goal one this little part of the project was remove any restrictions from the T-body forward. Once I get the AFM sorted out I will have removed any restrictions and will move on to overboring the T body.
90 Xcab V6
3.0 Rebuilt/Balanced
P/P w/OS valves
Downey Hdrs,Jacobs Ign
5.29's,Tru Trac+Lockright
4"TG SAS+Rear Kit on 35's
(DOA Racing = $1200 lesson <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />)
www.performancecylinderheads.com