your swaying from the question because you can't justify what you sprewed, constantly repeating the same old news over and over. If you've got some good tech, i'm sure some of us would like to see it. I've long done away with the stock air supply, it takes up too much room. I'm just asking you to explain how exactly the resonator affects airflow, from your prior statment.
We're talking specifics here, the 'believe it or not' resonator mod. How does the resonator restrict, Explain?

comeon, stick to the discussion, the show me state and where i'm from have nothing to do with it. I don't care to repeat the question any more.
Take Care

Ok, the resnonator acts as a capactor in electronics, are you with me? The capacitor as the resnot. builds up power and holds it, and then it releases it! Understand? What if you had that power all the time, instead of waiting for it to build up & releasing? Would you rather have delayed power or instant power? If instant, do a complete air intake mod, if not stay stock!
Does this answer you question or are more details needed? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" />
"sprewed? What the H** is that word?"

actually after playing with it for a while I think the actual air box mods are where the improvment is. The stock rubber pipe is fine unless you remove the baggage off the side of the air box (this is what I did for other reasons) and then you have a large hole to try and plug. I may try and plug that hole and reuse the stock rubber part if I can make it sanitary enough. The only draw back I can see to using 3" pipe is that you lose some velocity when you come through the AFM and then jump into a 3" pipe. Much like an expansion chamber only in exactly the wrong spot.


On the subject of exhaust. There is an optimum size and there is also extremes on either side. Im also about tired of people talking about back pressure like its some sort of requirment.... ITS NOT!. The reason you use a select size pipe is for scavanging or in more common terms siphoning. You want the exhaust to flow as easily as possible so the engine spends no extra power pushing the exhaust gasses out (AKA.. NO Back Pressure!). The compromise here is that you also want a small enough pipe so that as the exhaust gas pulse leaves its trying to draw more exhaust out of the cylinder or create a vacuum in the cylinder for the intake charge. So in essance the vacuume is aiding the intake charge. We could also go into exhaust gas velocity and the speed of heated air VS cold air but I think people who didnt know before will have the right idea now. If im wrong here some one jump right in but I dont know how much longer I can take "the back pressure excuse" for exhaust pipe size.

Very Good! Enough said! But, 2 1/4" Is it for TOYS 3.0 or 22! I know you all will disagree & agree! Oh, lets hear it, backpressure....! 2 1/4" is it Peiod! On the subject of air intakes: What if I had a camphered pipe vs. a straight pipe vs. a whatever! The smoother the airflow, the faster it gets into the intake w/o restriction the more the HP!
AGREE? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

This is getting a little off topic. Debating various intake and exhaust setups without hard engineering data, before and after dyno tests, etc. is sort of pointless. Lots of anecdotal evidence, lots of different goals in the designs, etc. so there is no one "right" answer that will work in every situation.

for some reason I had enough sense to realize what you meant