Ohhh yeah...I had to take the fan and fan clutch off too

Mine will be a bit more complex, as I will have to remove the existing mounts, then assemble the motor and tranny, then lower it into position and figure out the mount placement. Or, at least locate the tranny/tcase more or less in position on a tranny jack, and wiggle everything around until it looks right, then place the motor and tranny mounts and tack into position - then pull it all, finish weld, paint, and install.

I don't think Mike has finished dimensions for motor mounts in the documentation he is working up, and I think that's by design - measure twice, fit, then weld.

Yeah....you definately have your work cut out for you gettin that thing aligned properly.

What year is yours?....First or second generation 4Runner?


The thought occurs to me....you might check around with friends and at the scrap yards for a V6 4Runner of your year. If you get lucky and find one, you can measure up the motor mount pedestals and just copy those dimensions and locations.....that might reduce a lot of the guess work there. That would lock you into using the 3.0L motor mounts though, I think.

Yo, the sig has all. There were no V6s of my year but there were in 88, a very similar 1st gen. Actually the technical part won't be bad at all, just the lifting, moving, adjusting. The V6 had different transfer case mount locations anyway, and I will be approaching those more or less, but using my FRORF crossmember.

Not sure I want to be locked in to a mounting point. I might want it a skoash lower, or further forward, or something. Should be fun actually. And no, a fun time for me does not involve a bed of nails or anything like that...

Personally, I would want mine a skoash higher. Get that transfer case up nice and high ....maybe get the bottom of the T-case up to the same level as the frame rails.....more clearence for those pointy, aluminum T-Case eating rocks!!

You've got a solid axle in yours right?

I think that he is talking about the motor height, not necessarily the transfer case height. I know that when Chris Geiger turned his pickup into a buggy, he lowered the motor 3 inches for the COG and still made the transfer case crossmember flush with the frame.

Hmmmmm.......doesn't that leave the tranny/engine conbo at an odd angle?

And if it does....are there any problem associated with that?....just curious

Not really. There are driveline considerations, but we are talking a degree or so. It will be moved north of the horsecollar at least 3", providing for even a little lift of the tcase, especially if I redo the tunnel ala Project Blu. Yes, I have a solid axle, which I will take into the juggling consideration.

[update, I picked up a 3.0 bellhousing last night. When mated to an R151, the 3.4 uses the 3.0 bell (shorter, R151 input shaft is shorter than the R150 behind a 3.4), a stock 3.4 clutch and flywheel but a 3.0 throwout bearing, which I believe is the same as the 22RE throwout bearing, which is less than 5K miles old currently in my truck. Bonus! Gonna go by the dealer and order a 96 2WD Tundra 3.4 oilpan, pickup assembly, dipstick, tube, and o-ring today. Might have a little fun some evening this week.]

Temptation #1: the flywheel is in terrific shape. The clutch has a lot of life in it. Almost tempts me to not turn it, and maybe not replace the clutch.
Temptation #2: timing belt, tensioner pulleys are exxxxxxpensive. Almost tempted to inspect closely and if ok, leave them alone.
Temptation #3: have a 3.4 waterpump off my wife's truck that is about 20K miles old. Turns out the noise was not the waterpump - it was the idler pulley, see Temptation #2 - and the leak was the prior mechanic's gasket ineptitude. Almost tempted to use it instead of a new one.

My faith involves resisting temptation... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif" alt="" />

Definitely resist this... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Yeah...I gotta go with BKG on this one. I made that mistake once....Flywheel looked and felt nice and smooth...no grooving, no heat spots.....and about 5,000 miles after the clutch job I got a little shatter....about 10,000 miles after that my clutch disk grenaded!!.....when I removed the pressure plate bolts the clutch disk fell out in chunks!!


I only replaced my timing belt when I did mine....not the tensioner. The parts guy at my local dealership said the tensioners are good for 120K....so they only have to be replaced with every other Timing belt. Sounded like good advice 'cause it saved me $150. Mine felt like it was in good condition though.