Hi all,
Just noticed my T-case is leaking oil from what appears to be the rear seal. I have a bit of drive line vibration when I hit 70-80 mph, which has been present since getting my drive shaft shortened for a dual case set-up. I don't hear any odd noises that would suggest the bearing has died.

I have a trip planned to go over Niagra Rim Trail in 1.5 weeks, and really don't want to cancel it because of a leak.

How hard is it to change this seal?
Should I be worried about it? or just keep an eye on the fluid level, and fix it when I get back?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Erik <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Do a search here, I've answered this same question several times.


You will need a 30mm socket, 24mm socket, a long breaker bar, and a chisel. It's pretty easy to do.

Fix it, don't dribble on the trail. Gear oil, that is...

did a search, and it listed every single post on the board. (maybe I'm doing somthin' wrong? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />)

Then went thru each post individually, and unfortunatly, could not find a thread which discussed the problems.

Just looking at it, looks like I have to pull the rear plate, or can I just drop the flange off, and get to the seal that way? Since it's leaking, is there a bearing there I should replace as well?

Thanks in advance. (and Bill, I plan on fixing it ASAP-thanks)

Erik

Just pop the flange off, your seal will be right there. I did mine, pretty simple and straight-forward. Just make sure you re-stake the nut real good. If not, it WILL loosen up on it's own, and you'll be replacing the seal again, along with more vibration. Good luck and have fun!

It was a little tricky to find the posts I guess since people use different terms like "pinion seal" or t-case seal or transfer case seal or trans seal. But I found these

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB11&Number=561498


http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB11&Number=431399

Thanks for all your help. I did replace the seal last night, and it was really a pice of cake compared to the motor swap I just did.

Couple of questions though...
Re-stake the nut? There was no stake or cotter pin there. I torqued it to the specs (90 ft/lbs) and put it back together. Is this enough, or should I pull it apart again, and put in a "stake" (what is this?)

There is still a small amount of gear oil (black) leaking from the output shaft area. (When I took it apart, a small amount (5cc) of clear/yellow oil leaked out). Significantly less than before, but still a small drip. I noticed in the other thread it was suggested to put a small amount of RTV sealant on the flange. Would this clear up the small drip?

thanks again for everyone's assistance.
Erik <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Staking the nut refers to bending part of the nut onto the flat spot on the shaft. You will see a little indentation on the shaft, and you will get a screwdriver or something and flatten part of the nut onto the indentation. This keeps the nut from coming loose. I would probably go back and do it for good measure.

Gear oil should NOT be black. Different brands are different colors, but the cheap stuff I use is simmilar in color to new motor oil. But healthy gear oil should NEVER turn black like motor oil does. Some leakage is expected when you take off the flange to change the seal. If your t-case is filled properly, you should see quite a bit pour out. Did you refill your t-case after changing it? It could have been low on fluid to begin with, or have some bad oil in it. It might be a good idea to drain and fill with new gear oil.

I've heard of using RTV on the seal but never actually done it. I don't have leaks either.

Put Toyota orange RTV on the splines and inside the companion flange prior to sticking it back into the seal. Prevents seeping around the staked nut. Of course, oil the seal slightly first. BTW, I have usually lightly rehoned (at ~45* to the direction of rotation) the companion flange sealing surface with emory cloth when replacing the seal too.

I spread some RTV over the splines of the output shaft before installing the flange. Picked up that trick from Marlin. It keeps oil from leaking out through the center of the flange and also helps keep it tight. I stake the nut with a center punch, bending the thin metal on the end of the nut into the groove on the output shaft: