Is that 3/4 "ton" GM Lock Nut Wrench? How much was it, cause i located one for the montero, but it cost nearly 90 bucks. Thanks

I made one out of a short section of exhaust tubing. Can't remember what size, but I think it was 2-1/2". I ground the end down till there were just two nubs sticking out the end. I welded a stick of some scrap steel to the other end and made a handle. FREE!

Excuse the improper names, but it is a little late to go searching for my manual.

First you need to remove either your auto or manual hubs, or in the case of the genII your hub slugs. You need to pop the outer caps off on the genII first so you can take the circlip off the cv axle. Be careful as sometimes you have shims behind the clip and you don't want to loose them. Once the clip is off you can remove the bolts holding on the hub slug and pull it off the cv and the hub body.

If you dig through the grease you will find two screws. These screws go through holes in the lockplate, and lock the adjuster (tensioner what ever) and keep it from moving. They are philips heads, I like to use a impact screwdriver to remove them as they are sometimes hard to get out with a regular philips head without stripping them.

With the two screws out jimmy the lock plate out of the body of the hub. Behind it is the tensioner that holds the hub together and keeps the proper load on your wheel bearings.

If you have your special tool here is your time to use it. Otherwise take a punch or a philips head, and use a hammer to loosen the plate counter clockwise. DO NOT, I REPEAT DO NOT USE THE TWO THREADED HOLES TO LOOSEN IT. If you do your going to curse yourself when your try and put it all back together.

Once that is off the hub/rotor will pull off the spindle. Be careful the wheel bearings can fall of.

Repack them and clean the whole assembly before putting it back together.

Also, do a search on wheel bearings, there are several good threads about reinstalling them, seating them, preload, all that good stuff.

Any parts store $5-10

I just wanted to thank everyone for their help. I bought a nut wrench for a GM with 6 teeth on it, grinded off the 4 i didn't need and it works fine. The diameter is 2 1/2 inches for anyone who wants to know. Also, I took off the lock nut, without taking off the hub, just to made sure it fit and to see how it worked. My brother is the one who needs it, and since when he comes in he only has limited time, i wanted to make sure it would work for him. Would I have to tighten it to 145 ft. lbs then loosen it to 0 ft. lbs, then back to 18 ft. lbs? Because at the time, i just tighened it to 18 ft. lbs. Just curious if i had to proload the tension if I didn't take off the hub assembly. Thanks.

I think the initial tightening is just to set the bearing/hub assembly in place, before the actual torquing.

The manual shows a torque of 119ft/lbs, back off to zero and then 18ft/lbs, so I am going to get the GM tool and grind off two posts. I doubt I could get that pre-seating torque with the screwdriver hammer method.

I've always just done it by feel...personally, I don't think those torques are even that applicable unless you're replacing all bearings and races...just my .02

Im getting ready to do some rotors and was wondering if anyone has the 3/4 modified lock nut wrench they might like to sell or rent (i do not have my own metal grinder nor do i know anyone that has one)

also if anyone is interested i found the mitsubishi tool
(MB990954-01) for sale on ebay for $50+free shipp...if anyone wants to go 50/50 on this, i could use it for my rotors and then ship it to you.

If anyone could help with this, i sure would appreciate it

You should (might?) be able to cut the pins off a Chevy one with a hack saw. Postage two ways to borrow will cost almost as much as the tool. I'll look at mine tonight and see if it has enough clearance between the pins to lay a blade in there.