That's true. But make sure that the slip joint on the front driveshaft is well greased if you are going to drive around with the hubs locked. I didn't and paid the price. The slip joint froze up so the front driveshaft couldn't flex under torque. That put stress on the front diff pinion seal and it blew. Needed new pinion seal AND new front driveshaft because it was rusted solid. Ask Dave, I sent him my old driveshaft. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" />

Here is what I've done for the mechanical autolockers. The KIA logo is part of the hub, not glued.

FYI.. for anyone looking for the hubs. I just took delivery of the automechanical ones #61918. The order took about three days to get. I ordered from:

Performance Parts

The manual #60247 are there for $117 and the auto #61918 are there for $138. The price was a little higher for the manuals than I have seen elsewhere, but the delivery was quick.

I have one question for the more experienced folks here. Do I need a spindle nut wrench to install the hubs? The instructions mention a small torque (3.5-7 lb-in) for the spindle nut. If not, what did you use to torque it down?

Thanks,

Chris

Thanks for the link Chris that's the best price I've seen. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

I am assuming that the Warn AutoLocker hubs still work off of the vacuum as the original stock KIA hubs?

No, they are totally mechanical and the vacuum system is not needed.

I am confused? As I understand it, the manual hubs you have to get out of the car and by hand lock each hub. How does the Warn AutoLocker hub engage if it is not using the vacuum system or the hubs are not locked individually by hand?

They are "mechanically" activated by the very rotation of the driving shaft. If shaft does not rotate, hubs do not engage. If shaft rotates, hub engages. The exact way this happens is a little difficult to describe in a few words, but I'll post something about that some day.