Wow. That is a lot of money for getting the valve replaced. That is a lot of money for getting both heads done. I was looking on the internet and I have gotten a couple quotes for rebuilt 3VZE's. One is $2000 with free shipping, and no core charge that is on special right now, and they will honor that price for me when I get back home stateside since I am out at sea right now. The other one is $1995 which already includes a $500 refundable core charge but the shipping is like $200-making the engine effectively $1600 but I still have to ship the engine back to get my $500 core money. If I keep the old engine, then I could always rebuild it, and learn as I go. Has anyone ever heard of swapping from the 3VZE to the Tacoma 2.7l four cylinder? I didn't learn about the problems of the 3.0 until long after I had gotten my truck. Anyone ever heard of installing a 3VZE into a Samurai? I am planning on getting one of those when I get back so that I have something to wheel/drive while my truck is down. I have all the time in the world to wait, so I am looking for my best option.

It is my understanding(I am not a mechanic), that the differance between the wet/dry test, is that the wet test will tell you if your loss of compression is due to bad rings or bad valves. For example, if you do the dry test(should be done first) and your readings are 165, 145, 168, 163 (comp. numbers should all be w/in ten of each other)across four cylinders, you would add oil to the 145 cyl, and retest. If the compression stays the same it is likely a valve problem(burnt, tight, stuck, etc.). If the compression goes up, it is likely a compression ring seal problem.

I had looked at buying a new/rebuilt/used engine. Used were running $1850, and new/rebuilt were $2350. I did find some used on the net, for around $600, but no garauntee they were in better shape than the one I had. I agree that the $17-2000 the dealer quoted me was expensive. The first time it was just as bad, but I had more money than time at the time. The second time around, I had more time and I wasn't willing to pay the dealer. Considering what the dealer wanted, and what I spent doing it my self, I got a far better deal than even buying new. The bottem end of the 3.0 is virtually indestructable(providing you keep the engine well maintained), so there wasn't really a need for me to buy a complete one. My total cost was about $1817, I spent another $200 on the exaust. Without the headers and the O2 sensor, the cost would have been around $1200. Here is part list and what I spent.
Complete heads rebuild,
new head bolts,
complete gasket kit $755.63
Injectors rebuilt $210.00
Downey Headers $343.72
Downey X-over pipes $170.59
Knock sensor $127.52
Timing belt $31.40
Water pump $82.29
Oxygen sensor $96.02

So did you end up rebuilding the engine? Or you got a complete gasket kit I guess that you just mostly rebuilt the engine, without removing the crank and main bearings, rods, etc? I think that with the prices that I have been quoted that a rebuilt is a pretty good option for me. But since I still need to do the SAS, I could save the money and just rebuild my engine myself. I found engine rebuild kits with pistons for around $800-$1000. I still need to do some research as to how much the cylinder walls can be bored over. I wonder whether boring out the cylinders in the case of the 3.SLOW will yield any gains in torque at all. This would be a project to undertake since I haven't rebuilt an engine in a long time. I am planning on getting a Samurai to drive/wheel since it fits on the trails in WA better than my Toyota. This would be perfect so that I could have a wheeling rig while the toy would be my project. I have too much money in the toy to just get rid if it-custom bumpers/sliders, rear locker, etc. I don't think that I would get nearly the $$$ that I would like to if I sold it.


I had looked at buying a new/rebuilt/used engine. Used were running $1850, and new/rebuilt were $2350. I did find some used on the net, for around $600, but no garauntee they were in better shape than the one I had. I agree that the $17-2000 the dealer quoted me was expensive. The first time it was just as bad, but I had more money than time at the time. The second time around, I had more time and I wasn't willing to pay the dealer. Considering what the dealer wanted, and what I spent doing it my self, I got a far better deal than even buying new. The bottem end of the 3.0 is virtually indestructable(providing you keep the engine well maintained), so there wasn't really a need for me to buy a complete one. My total cost was about $1817, I spent another $200 on the exaust. Without the headers and the O2 sensor, the cost would have been around $1200. Here is part list and what I spent.
Complete heads rebuild,
new head bolts,
complete gasket kit $755.63
Injectors rebuilt $210.00
Downey Headers $343.72
Downey X-over pipes $170.59
Knock sensor $127.52
Timing belt $31.40
Water pump $82.29
Oxygen sensor $96.02 [/quote]

Yes, I just rebuilt the upper end. The top of the pistons and cylinder all looked good, no pitting or scarring, and I wasn't burning any oil, just low compression on the evn cyls. If your problem is just a burnt/stuck valve, I think it is cheaper to go the rebuild route, especially since you are thinking about having the cyls bored. I had to have mine done either .020 or .030 back in '90 when the truck was new(only 7 mos old), after I hydro locked it after a river crossing. There weren't any used 3.0's available and it would have months before a new engine from Japan could be sent over. As far as power, most mechs(both Dealerships and private), that have driven my truck have all remarked on the difference in power between my truck and other 3.0's they have driven. I am not sure if the bigger cyls made that much of a difference or not. ev88toy4x4
had his cyls bored out .030 and is in the process of reassembly. He should have an idea of the power gains from his rebuild, by the time you get back. His loctaion says Yakima, WA, it might be worth it to see what his truck is like in person before jumping into a complete rebuild.



This is exactly why I rebuilt mine, and will do it again and again. I have over $20k(most of it is my own labor) invested in mine, not including the purchase price. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

I was recently pleasantly surprised to find 3.0 parts on engnbldr's site ("Toyota Hot Licks" then at top of page go to 3.0 page). He's got a master engine kit for $358 with pistons (std, .020, or .040). 1mm oversized valves are on sale for $6/ea through 9/22. Head bolts $39.

http://www.engnbldr.com/toyota3.0V-6.htm

Thanks for the explanation Snowtoy.

Also, I wanted to make sure you're aware of cruzin performance for your injectors (at least cleaning and flow matching). I've read a good number of people on this board who have had good experiences with them and pretty cheap, too.

I am going to undertake this mission when I get back stateside. I have read that there are are a couple sources that are making stroker kits for the 3VZE. I would really like to be able to rebuild it and have a vast improvement in torque than before the rebuild. I just hope that they can produce them in an expeditious manner so that I can get one when I begin my rebuild. I will need to send the injectors off to be rebuilt as well.