Well I think I might just do the K&N drop in then, I'm kind of concearned about water getting in the intake and stuff if I did an open cone...What part number is the drop in K&N filter?

Also, I was talking to a guy I know today who is a mechanic, and he said I should change the oil and filter after 500 miles, but NOT to run full synthetic until I put 10,000 miles on the motor because full synthetic wont run as hot or something for it to break in properly. So I will just run castrol syntec 10-30 for the first 10,000 miles, and change out to a full synthetic.

I'm going to try to have my truck done by Friday, so I will keep you guys posted, and how I like it and if it makes any better power. Thanks for all the input and help. I need my truck back! Havent had it for about 2 months <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

I broke down and just bought a K&N drop in replacement. Will be here Friday. Hopefully it helps out and makes a difference. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Hey ev88toy4x4, I might start running full sythetic a littler earlier than 10k mi. Full synth is being shipped in crankcases more & more these days, straight from the factory. Although my Ducati's cylinders were treated with Nikasil, it was sent to these shored filled with full synthetic (way back in '99). I don't think it takes that long to seat the rings with standard dino oil, maybe 500-1,000 miles? Lookup proper break-in techniques. Good luck & please post your results.

Cheers,
Zach

I am planning on going the route that you guys already have. My 94 3.0 has 196K miles on it, and it is pretty tired now. Coupled with that I *may* have a burnt valve that will need to be repaired. I have priced come rebuilt 3.0's and the best price that I have found was $1495 after the refund of the $500 core. I am wondering whether it would be cheaper overall and produce greater torque if I were to rebuild it myself (have a machine shop bore it, and port my heads and intake manifold like you guys have. I have rebuilt engines before, but they were small carbureted Datsun engines that are really easy to work on. I did a port/polish on those engines as well, and though they worked great, I didn't really know what I was doing. I am interested in how much the throttle response was improved and the increased torque as a result of these mods. Have you guys considered having the stock valves replaced with larger ones? This is something that I am going to look into depending on the cost. I want to get my truck back onto the trail with more power than it had before. Depending on what it costs me to get the rebuild done, will determine what the fate of the truck will be. I am considering just getting rid of the rig and getting me a Samurai since I build it up into a great crawler in a much more cost effective manner. I am wanting to do the SAS on my truck, but it will end up as a long term project! In the mean time I need to have something to wheel-and nothing fits the trails in WA better than a Sammi does.