Im just finishing up the build of my 3vz-e. I have bored the block .030(from the engine shop), new crank, bigger doa cam, bigger pistons, new rods, new exhaust and intake valves, cleaned up the heads and everything, ported them, and new injectors. I also put a Centerforce Stage 1 clutch in it too while I had it apart. I already have 2 1/4" exhaust, no cat, 40 series flowmaster. When I get it done in a couple days, I want to put an intake on it that is the toyota adaptor plate, and a open cone filter, just gets rid of the box. I was wondering if anyone has done this on there 3.0, and how they did it? What tubes do you have to plug off, or what not? Also another question I had is what kind of oil should I run in it now? Its going to be BRAND NEW, and I was wondering if I should run a full synthetic, or what? Or just stick to the good ol' castol syntec 10-30? What would I gain/lose using a full synthetic oil? Of course I would still use the toyota oil filter too.

If it were my newly rebuilt engine I'd prolly run standard dino oil in it fer about 500 miles, change it, then run the same stuff for another thousand or so, then switch to full synthetic. Oh, a magnetic drain plug might be a good idea too. Sounds like a fantastic rebuild, hope the break in process goes well.

Cheers,
Zach

I have done all the upper end work to mine as well. I hope you like a steady tick from the DOA cams <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> . I ran just dino oil in mine for about 2k miles then changed to synthetic. Im also running the stock bottom end with 175k on it though. I would be very intrested in checking out your results when your done to see what kinda difference the complete bottm end makes over just doing the top end like I did. Here are some shots of the intake mods I did.







My next mod will either be sectioning my intake to port the runners or just boring my throttle body for now. Here is what I have done with my upper and lower intakes.

My upper....

My lower....

And finally the transition between the 2 as thay are assembled upside down on my work bench...


this last one is difficult to see but if you look down the bore you can see the clean transition between the upper and lower. I have an extra upper intake on my extra motor that Im considering cutting the plenum off and porting each runner to a given size then welding the plenium back on to see what kinda gains can be obtained from intake mods. I Tend to think the real limiting factor on the 3.0 seems to be the exhaust valves. You can clearly see the seat being much smaller than the exhaust bowl area and most places only offer 1mm over sized valves that use a stock seat for what would seem to me like no performance gain but maybe some gain in heat dissipation.

Im really trying to get some talk going about 3.0 performanc but most people just want to talk about how much it sucks and wont give any specifics why. I cant for the life of me figure out why it wont make any power? Is it the intake? the Exh valves? the ECU? lack of cam options? you simply dont need a 4 valve head to make power as other threads on other boards have suggested just have a look at the gains made with a run of the mill chevy 350 using a 2 valve head.

How far is Yakima from Salem? Im very intrested in what kinda results you obtain. Also if you have a substantial flat spot in the middle of your power range after assembly you can look to the EGR vave as the problem. I had to disable mine to get the flat spot to go away. I hope your putting headers on at this time as well? I opted for downey headers from truck performance for around 350-360$ with crossover pipe and all..

That intake looks awesome. What do you think If i just took and drilled a bunch of 5/32" holes in the bottom of the air box below the filter? Would that work alright, or would it mess things up?

I also would like to get talk going about the 3.0's too, because most everyone says they suck, but if you build one and know what your doing they can be pretty powerful motors.

I was just reading today on a different board about a guy that is in the process of putting 5vz heads on his 3vz off a camary and stuff...we'll see how that turns out.

I hope I have a little more power over stock at least. I have been reading alot about the intake on these 3.0's though, and all i've read is they suck and you need to do something about them, so thats what I'm going to do as soon as i get my truck done in a couple more days. Then my next mod will be headers, but prolly not for a couple more months.

So it sounds like what i'm going to do is just run dino oil in it for the first 500 miles, drain everything and go with full synthetic and a new toyota filter. Anyone have experience with full synthetic, what brand is good or you would reccommend?

Edit-Yakima is prolly 3, 4 hour drive?? I'm not really sure actually, What would be a town in the middle we could meet at maybe?

I Tend to think the real limiting factor on the 3.0 seems to be the exhaust valves. You can clearly see the seat being much smaller than the exhaust bowl area and most places only offer 1mm over sized valves that use a stock seat for what would seem to me like no performance gain but maybe some gain in heat dissipation.

Im really trying to get some talk going about 3.0 performance but most people just want to talk about how much it sucks and wont give any specifics why. I cant for the life of me figure out why it wont make any power?

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>>>*I don't really understand that, either. The engine design does have some nice potential, 150 H/P out of the gate, potential to 175+ looks easy to me. Some are reporting 200+ already.
On the larger exhaust valves, of course added exhaust flow has just one basic function, and that is to increase RPM potential. Horsepower there, of course. So adding intake flow is the obvious next step. I personally think 1mm is exactly correct as to size for normal street use. But I noticed my young Son Tod is already beating my airflow numbers with the 22RE engines, so I stay out of his way on that now...

The trick seems to me to always be to add airflow, and the engine runs on fuel so I have been looking at the intake side, time permitting.
The factory got very close with the cam designs, I see powerbands changed with not a lot of gain, taking driveability into account. Most daily drivers are not run at higher RPM's as a rule. Still, good numbers and DOA seems to lead the field there..
It does get interesting, gains are small here and there but stack up.
So I am interested in getting a discussion going, too. My feelings are this powerplant is a bit overlooked, perhaps because of the bad rap from the gasket failures common to the early designs.....*EB

To be complety honest that 3" elbow with the couplers on it sure looks cool as hell...But I have since put the factory black plastic stuff back on and simply made a plug for the big opening that I no longer need. I did this to paint the steel one but I cant really tell much of a performance difference if any. I think the intake restriction is in the 6 individual runners in the large aluminum upper manifold. I think this mainly because when I was port matching everything I had to remove a significant amount of material from the upper ports but the lower ports needed very little removed.

Look at the amount of material I removed to get the gasket to match up on the left compared to the uncut right side..

Now look at the uncut lower intake. I marked it to be cut but havent removed anything from it.


You can see how little actually needs to be removed from the lower compared to the pics of the upper. Once I cut into my extra manifold we will actually see where the restriction is I think.

You dont know of any reasonably priced Dyno rates in the portland area do ya EB? I would be darn curios what kinda numbers I can obtain with my truck. Im sure my gearing is whats killing my seat of the pants tests... 4.10's and 32" tires are just not very friendly. I have a guy that bores throttle bodys for 100$ Im going to be shipping my extra TB out soon. I read a review on a sight where an individual felt the TB boring was a larger improvment than headers+exhaust. Having already done the headers+exh he may have simply amplified his results by addressing the next weakest link in the line who knows?

Is there any industry golden rule that pertains to intake valve size compared to exh valve? Maybe some sort of ratio that works best? What do you think of my hair brained chopped up intake manifold idea? I know from my days working with VW rabbits that the CIS intake manifold was clearly the limiting factor and that any increase in cam lift over a modest amount was simply wasted due to intake manifold runner size.

I will never deal with that guy again! Im still walking kinda funny from that whole ordeal <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

Once I found out he used to be in california I was able to do a little research after the fact...
http://64.60.4.195//scripts/cgiip.e...50102&hAddrID=1&hAKAID=1

This is how I setup the intake on mine however it is not right because you will loose alot of low end torque by taking out the resisinator box.


I have since put the stock air box back on mine and have gained back some low end this way. It is better to run a high flow K&N drop in filter instead of doing a cone filter setup IMHO.

I had my heads shaved on my 3.0 I get a little bit of better power out of the top end but low end seems the same and I checked my compression results and found I must have had more materials removed for the righ head than the left because the right bank is at 180 psi and the left is 170 psi. Also the other issue is timing is really hard to get correct as well.