Hi, I've got a 95 T-100 4x4 that needs front brake work. The inside brake pads on both calipers are not making full contact with the rotors. The inside surface of each rotor is rusted bad because of little contact with the pads. I pulled both calipers and noticed that the inside pistons move very little with brake application....the outside pistons move just fine. After many attempts at pumping the brakes I got the inside pistons to push most of the way out and then I'd force them back in and repeat the process. I know this isn't the proper fix but it might buy me some time.
So whats the deal?.....are these calipers junk [only 41K on truck] or do they just need rebuilt? ......How about the disks....should I have them turned down or replace them?
Also any tips on preventing this again would be great.
Thanks.

rebuild them. the kit is cheap if you have the time/tools/knowledge. the rust will clean right up (unless you are talking really, really bad) as soon as the pads hit them. if your outer pads are much more worn, maybe clean up the rotors and throw new pads on while you have it all apart to redo teh calipers. you only have 41K on a 9 year old T-100? i did alomst that much in the first year.

a slightly more expensive (but much easier) route would be to get rebuilt calipers. I had to recently since one of my calipers would come unstuck. Autozone, Advanced Auto parts etc.. had OK prices on them.

I agree, it's not fun rebuilding a caliper, might as well buy it rebuilt already.

Flush your brake fluid while you're at it because the most likely cause of your sticky calipers is rust in the bores, and that comes from moisture in your brake fluid. It should be flushed every couple of years.

Ok, so I called and can get rebuilt Calipers at a reasonable price.....Lets assume I get the brake lines/hoses off each bad caliper with out snapping off [always my problem area] and the rebuilt calipers installed. The only area I feel hesitant about is bleeding the system with out the aid of a specail brake bleeding tool. Can this system be purged of air with just the conventional method of pumping the pedal and opening the bleeder of each caliper?
Thanks guys for all your input.

Yes, just don't let the master run dry or you'll probably have to start over and bench bleeding that first.

Well, I got the rebuilt calipers on last night but I think my disc's are going to need turned down. Rust build up on disc was just too much for old pads to clean up.
So, before I pull the front hubs can anyone tell me what kind of bolts hold the disc to the hub?....are they just your standard metric head bolt or do I need a special torx bit or socket?
I might get away with useing a 1 7/8 or 2'' socket in place of the 54mm required for the hub nuts.
Also my manual says to re-pack hub with 'MP grease'.....whats 'MP' stand for?
Thanks.

MP=multipurpose

Most decent tire shops can turn the rotors on the vehicle to save you the hassle. Last time I had it done it was about $50.

MP=Multipurpose......oh brother <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Man, my area must be slow. Called 6 tire shops and only one could turn down rotors .... had to be OFF the vehicle. [Sears Auto for $17 each].
Local Toyota dealer can do it ON vehicle but they want $129.95 .
Called local parts store w/machine shop....said they can do it [off vehicle] $10 each and leave the disc on the hub. Probably will go with them if I can get hubs off.
Thanks for the info.....it was worth the shot.