Hi Morgan,

The KONI's slip into the strut base and are held in by a 12mm bolt thru the bottom. I will simply use a steel spacer 1" in diameter with a 1/2" hole thru it. If I use a 1" long spacer, I will use a 1" longer bolt. If I use a 3" long spacer, I will use a 3" longer bolt.

If you use Eibach springs without coil spacers, you could make the strut 3/4" to 1 1/8" longer to get more articulation.

If you use Eibach springs with 3/4" coil spacers, you could make the strut up to about 3/8" longer before you get CV boot problems.

Lengthening the struts performs about the same function as Daves upper strut mounts except that you can make different lengths other than just 1 1/8".

If you drop the lower A-arms and use an upper ball joint spacer, you could make the strut about 1" plus your drop longer.

The KONI's were about $117 each.

alright, i have just become somewhat concerned about this- how does the top end of the strut stay put? what is there to keep it from wiggling side to side inside the stock strut carcass? if it does this, it will eventually wallow-out or bend the stock strut carcass and cause failure of the front suspension. if you put a spacer in there, won't it make this possibility worse/more prone?

Hi Dave,

The KONI has 3 little bumps near the top of the body that are forced into the strut housing when you install them at the stock length. When I put in the spacer, I used 3 radially located shims to do the same thing.

Fortunatly our struts aren't really struts, they are a form of coil-over shocks. The suspension side forces are absorbed by the upper and lower A-arms. The strut only sees the side forces from the coil spring ends not being perfectly supported.

I don't think that there would be a problem with wiggling around unless you extend it more than 3 or 4 inches.