Yes, I pulled the entire engine myself - and reworked the heads as well as the block. Pulling the heads is straightforward.
First - get a factory manual if you can.
I suggest getting some pint sized plastic zip-lok bags (freezer bags) from the grocery store and label the hardware that goes with each assembly and put the parts in the bags as you progress. That'll make things a lot easier on re-assembly.
I suggest having a machine shop replace the exhaust guides with the newer style with the clips that keep them from dropping - a common problem caused by heat (mine had 3 dropped guides). I would also replace the VLAs (lifters) - about $12 each from the dealer, but can be bought elsewhere for about the same price. If you're on a strict budget you can soak-clean the old ones, but the results might be disappointing and you won't know until the engine's running. Replace the cam plugs and seals. Replace the valve stem seals, of course.
If you can, have a good machine shop do the head work. They're set up for it and have all of the reference specs at hand to test the valve springs, guide clearances, dress valve seats, grind valves, etc. I think the cost here is modest and worth it, but that's not to say you can't do it yourself if you have the equipment.
Reassembly requires paying close attention to a few areas to avoid leaks and blown gaskets. Since you aren't pulling the block you can't mill the deck, but you should make certain the deck is clean. Stuff rags in the cylinders and scrape anything off the deck. Buy a true M12x1.25" bottoming tap to clean the bolt hole threads in the block. Good service here:
MSC Industrial Supply Use a vacuum cleaner to get out as much "stuff" as possible when you're finished. Wipe the deck (and head surface) with acetone or lacquer thinner just before putting on the head.
If you'll reuse the head bolts, check them for length. I think they should measure 4.0". It'll be difficult with the block installed to measure clamping range of the bolts, but as long as the threads are clean you should be ok. To clean the bolt threads, chase them with a die. Before installing the bolts, oil the threads and head and the washer lightly with 30W motor oil. I use a coffee can and just dip the threads - then wipe the bolt and washer with the extra oil on the threads. Tighten the head bolts in a spiral pattern, starting in the middle of the head and "sneak up" on the torque value by using incrementally larger values. The manual has incorrect values for head bolt torque - should be 80 ft/lbs. Retorque is not necessary.
Use a very small amount of anti-sieze on all aluminum threads and reduce torque values slightly - lower end of a stated range should be fine.
Use new valve cover gaskets, clean the head with acetone or lacquer thinner where the valve cover gaskets seal and put a bead of RTV (1/2" long) in the corners of the cam towers - as described in the manual.
I'm sure I've missed a lot of "tips". Others may have more. As you get into the job, post any questions on a new thread. There are plenty of experienced folks here that can answer your questions.
Good luck,
Frank
