The first time it happened, I swapped the relay with it's spare and it fired right off. I thought, 'cool'. Then it happened again and I didn't have the new one yet, so just for the heck of it I swapped the old relay back and it restarted again...Hmmmmm.

Then it happened a couple more times and the relay swapping didn't help.

I kind of figured vapor lock and the valve adjustment were 'out there' as possibilities, but I'm not coming up with any other ideas...

It doesn't (or at least, hasn't YET <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" />) happen when it's all the way warmed up. Just when it's been started and run for a short time...like when I run from work to my grandson's daycare to pick him up for kindergarten <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />.

I'll just keep checking the ignition and fuel systems till something turns up. Thanks for all the help and ideas, even if it's poking holes in some of my ideas!

Jay

Never overlook the obvious... <note to mods, we need the 'embarrassed' smiley for use in the body, not just the main post...> I disregarded the fuel filter as I had changed it when I first got the Trooper and <drum roll> ASSumed it shouldn't have gotten plugged so soon.

Nothing else had helped so far (I had taken to leaving it running whenever possible). The symptoms kept making me think fuel delivery though, so yesterday it dawned on me that it's been almost 2 years since I got my Trooper.

So, after it did it to me twice yesterday (and I wound up driving my daughter's car back to work after lunch...), I picked up a new fuel filter on the way home and installed it last night.

So far (three times that in the past would have been no-restart times), it's worked every time...

<fingers crossed>

Jay

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" /> Well, the saga continues...it's been working fine since the new fuel filter. Then, today, no problems until it died as I pulled up to a stop light and wouldn't restart. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" /> <and thanks to the 2 guys who stopped their cars and helped me push it out of the traffic lane!!>

Once again after it sat for about an hour, it restarted.

What I did notice as I tried this and that while it wouldn't restart, was when I opened the TBI butterflies, there were visible wisps of a whitish vapor for several seconds and a strong fuel smell.

Also when it finally restarted, it had a slightly fluctuating idle. It's normally (even through all the problems so far) very steady at 750-800. This time, it would hold at 1100 for a few seconds, drop down to the 500 range, then rise (IE, relatively slow change, not a sharp blip) back to the 900-1000 range again.

I'm thinking this points to maybe an IAC problem? I printed out the adjustment procedure and hope to find time to try that tonight. Does this seem like a possible candidate for what's been going on?

Thanks for hanging with me on this...I thought I had better karma than this! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Jay

Did you try the "spray starter fluid" trick yet? Maybe be a hose problem.

Maybe just a shot in the dark here as you seem to ne just having a warm start problem but....Check your fuel pump wiring near your pump.

Pyro, To check the fuel pump you will need to tee into the rubber fuel supply line and put a gauge on a long hose so you can see the press while your driving. 9 to 13 PSI is what you want. There is also a wire under your fuse box that when jumpered to the battery will cause the pump to run without the engine running. If the fuel PSI is low you will need a TBI rebuild kit that comes with all the O-ring seals and a new fuel press diaphram and spring.
Also: You should always carry an ignition modual in you glove box just in case the one in the distributer burns out.
They burn out when the white dielectric on the under side of the modual drys out and no longer allowes the unit to cool. My engines will stall about twice and restart ok before the modual is cooked. Now that I carry spares and replace the grease every couple of years I have no Problems. good luck

Yes...and no. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> I did find one hose on the back of the TB (early on in this process) that was on but loose. Replaced the 'coupler' hose with a slightly smaller dia one, but it didn't seem to be related to the problem.



I tried to look at that...as near as I can tell, unless everyone else has longer (doubtful), skinnier (probable) arms than me, you need to drop the gas tank for that. But, yeah, that's on the Oh well, I guess I can't put it off any longer list of things to check, along with the fuel pump itself.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> I thought the injected systems ran higher pressure than that? Or, are you thinking after the pressure regulator? There was another post about checking the regulator, which is something else on the 'To-Do' list.



I'll need to check the wiring diagram, but basically bypass the relay?



I couldn't be that lucky...I'd like to replace the TBI with the Holley one.



Hmmm...mine was replaced a little over a year ago when I had some other problems (turned out to be a bad ECM). I may give that a try this weekend...Thanks

Jay

pyro: I have a holley and the injectors pluged up on me after a year. I modified the TB and installed the Rochester upper unit and it worked fine except for the off idle throttle plate sticking problem it had. I finaly put a 4.3L TBI unit on, end of problems. I have made several Fuel Regulators adjustable but there dosent seem to be any difference in performance on my 2.8L with 180K miles.
Good Luck

Hey Pyro. Not sure about TBI fuel pressure as I have the MPFI and don't have my book right in front of me but yeah, I thought the pressure was considerably higher as well.

On the MPFI 2.6 the pressure is supposed to be at 35 psi with vac hose on pressure regulator connected and 40 with it disconnected. Sorry I don't have my bible here to check your TBI pressure.

As far as corrosion at the fuel pump harness....got time...grab and beer and I could tell you stories. After dropping the tank several times in a two year period due to corrosion at one point or another in that assembly, I decided to straight wire it and I use several coats and I do mean several...like seven....of "liquid electrical tape" at all connections. The stuff smells real bad, can get you high in a hurry but will protect your connections very well. I live in the North Country where we have long winters full of road salt and I just couldn't stand losing the battle any more.

As far as something electrical heating up to the point where it fails...that's a possibility. Which component, I couldn't tell you but those things all work with some kind of resistance or other whether it's some kind of thin metal strip that bends to close a ciruit or stretch to open a circuit, or maybe mercury controlled, the heat plays the roll in either opening or closing that circuit. If something is getting too hot, it may shut down and then when cooled, it's fine again. Wish I knew more to help you and hope I haven't mis-spoke on what I think I know....

good luck...

9 to 13 is the range for the TBI. I just happened to have my book handy.

I had similar problems with injectors on a Holley over a period of a few years. I finally traced it down to a marginal electrical connection in the circuit for one of the injectors.