Hey Jim, yeah, I'd like to see the info. In case I do need an upgrade, it'd be great if it can be done using the stock size radiator using the existing mounts.

I will drop in to talk to the guy early next week.

My snake oil alarm is going off. I'm not saying it doesn't work, but adding turbulence would, if anything, lead to greater pressure. Not much in this low-pressure application, of course, but still. It might cool the water better over stock by keeping it in the radiator longer....because it's moving through the cooling system slower.

The ways radiators cool better are by being bigger and having more more water exposed to more surface area (and of course, by moving more air acorss it). I'm not understanding this one, unless dimpling is what they do for more surface area.

When you talk to the guy, get the company name so we can web search it. If it was a choice of restriction, I'd rather have more of the skinny passages that water flows through, as that would increase water-to-metal (to air) surface contact.

The way that he explained it to me is that with straight tubes you are essentially the outer layer of the column of water. By introducing the dimples you are creating turbulence - essentially mixing the water so that more of the water molecules come in contact with the tubes.

I'm not all that suspicious as the principal is sound. Laminar flow is great for low flow resistance, but it is not the best for heat transfer. Adding turbulence puts more water molecules in contact with the metal of the radiator as it flows though, aiding in heat transfer. Using a bigger radiator works essentially the same way, though it does it with more surface area rather than shuffling more water up against the existing surface area.

And I would like to see Jim's info, but please, if anybody (not picking on you Wayne, I mean anyone <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />) wants to argue radiator theory, start a new thread for it???

--Dan

Been being lazy and working on the house so not a lot done. I did strip the interior and will spray it probably next weekend. I found 4 nice drain holes in the floor BTW that were plugged from the factory. They're the same size hole as the hole over the front body mount bolt so the rubber grommets for that will fit the drain holes.



I'm re-doing my shifters again, this time with the twin-sticks next to each other. I'm also building in a tray for the tranny shifter to sit in so it's not exposed underneath like it is now.

I did got the Isuzu radiator fan adapter/mount done. I was able to turn the pieces on my mini-lathe to a light press-fit so they stayed alligned for welding.






And, probably the best news yet is.... my IC/Adapter plate is done <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> It should ship Monday, so I should be able to bolt up my SC this week <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/nana.gif" alt="" />


Oh, also finished up my t-case re-build a few weeks ago and I added in some sight tubes this time too. Ain't it purdy





--Dan

so what are the smaller white tubes on the D300 for?

Those are the vent lines for the D300 and the Klune.

I got my headers coated inside and out with ceramic coating from TechLine. I've used it 2 or 3 times before on my turbo manifolds and down-pipes. It does get dull with use, but it doesn't burn off or rust at least.



--Dan

Looking good Dan... That t-case doubler realy turn out sweet. Thanks for the heads up on the 300. That is some smooth stuff you have been doing on your project. When do you forsee it to be done?

Keep up the great work,
Daniel

warning: lots of pics....


woooohoooooo! hehe, just got IC/adapter plate today. I'm embarased to say how little I paid for it. Basically just material and shipping, all courtesy of our own member here 'wiguy'. He was able to use my drawing in the CNC shop he works at and do it on his own time. Major kudos to you wiguy <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> Thanks to OffRodEO too, for offering a backup to get it machined through a shop he deals with.

Here's a few pics:

Top and bottom plates.



They sandwich a 1.5" thick core for the IC. The half circle grooves in the two halves form the clamp for the hoses on the core when bolted together:




Similar deal with the port water injection nozzles. The nozzles press into the holes, pinching down the tube:





There is a hole and ports for PCV as well. On the stock SC, the PCV is part of the SC body. For the M112, I made provisions for it in the IC:





And finally:

[img]http://www.houlster.com/amigo/3800sc/IC/images/119_1954.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.houlster.com/amigo/3800sc/IC/images/119_1955.jpg[/img]


Hope it fits under the hood <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> I am happy to say that the belt allignment looks good, and my drawing so far looks like it was nuts on for all the bolt holes and such but I'll find out later for sure. I did have to massage the core a little bit, but no biggie. The machining looks awesome on it too <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Now I can get to work on moving the coil pack, making the fuel rails, mounting the 2nd A/C compressor (where the coil pack was) and relocating the alternator up and out to clear.


--Dan