So Dan
You mentioned in your email that you have the MS running in "bypass" mode.
What does your timing light show for advance?
I presume as soon as you connect the bypass it stalls?
(Don't sweat it that's actually a very good sign!)
As soon as we can work out the trigger offest details you will certainly be in full control of your 12x12 ignition timing map. Be aware the "default" map that loaded with MSnS-E is poor and may not reflect the timing you desire for this build. *Edit it in Megatune and "burn")

My initial advice would be to stay "cold" (RICH with minimum advance)and ease your way forward. I will try to find a timing table for the L67.
GREAT LOOKING BUILD BTW!! (I am so jealous) <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
Regards
WopOnTour

woohooo, been working day and night (nearly every nite, *all* night) for the last week. Man, it's amazing how the little things add up.

I've got fuel, got spark, got fire!! WOP, I started with your settings for the ignition and from there it only took about 5 minutes to get it going. If you can find the L67 timing map that'd be a great !!

I got a mark on the balancer to watch with the bypass disconnected, then adjusted the trigger offset until it no longer jumped when I plugged the bypass in (70 deg BTW). So far, I've got it tuned a bit rich, a bit conservative on timing and I've also got the boost bypass valve hooked up so I'm limited to about 4-5 psi right now. Will keep it this way until I get a chance to work on the timing more. I don't have the IC or water injection systems hooked up and it starts to detonate around 8 - 9 psi in the lower rpm range. I think this should keep me fairly safe until I get things worked out, and may yet get the WI hooked up before we leave.


Anyways, got power, drove it to the A/C shop this morning to get a couple hoses made and I'm charging the system now. Dallas has been good enough to wait around town for me so I won't be driving out alone at least.

I think we're headed for MOAB tonite (day and a half late, but still going)

(BTW, even at 5psi it's a kick in the pants <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />)

--Dan

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Now get some <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/sleeping.gif" alt="" />

Nick <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <<maybe one of those too

Great News
Gotta love that feeling when all that work starts and fires up the first time! Congrats, and have a beer! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

I would try experimenting with
Trigger angle "addition" by 10 degrees at a time to try and get Megatune and the timing light to match. If it wont maye change your base trigger angle to 50 (or 70), reset the "addition" to 0 (ZERO) and try again etc etc.

I am working on finding a base map for you, (in VEX format) but you may just have to manually edit all 144 cells (it's really not that bad)
MAKE SURE YOU READ THE MEGAMANUAL AND MEGATUNE DOCS ON TUNING
basially
Just have someone drive at steady road loads and on the laptop in Megatune navigate to "live" VE map tune screen, observe O2 (V>450mV=too rich OR V<450mV too lean) and press the G-key to allow the editing curser to automatically "follow" the engine within the current cell then just press Shift ^ up arrow to go richer or Shift ^ down arrow to go leaner (based on your 02.) You dont need to "hit" every cell, cuz you can do a little manual blending afterwards.

Keep pressing the arrow key until you can get an O2 swing to the other side of 450mV THEN STOP work back a couple key presses until it "just" flips ABOVE 450mV (in that cell) so now you KNOW you are richer than 14.7:1 (of course a wide band O2 makes this step a whole lot easier- ie O2 targeting)

Same process for the timing advance basically except it's alot more dangerous as you add advance under boost. I'm working on adding a GM knock sensor system to the MS and hope to have it done in the next couple weeks- something I'm sure you'd benefit from, so I will advise when I get there. (BTW Roger Ennis' Palm Pilot tuner works now in MSnS-E, so if you have one...)

My congrats again, you've successfully broke new ground when it comes to MS and MSnS-E THANK YOU AND CONGRATS!!
(Hopefully we can convince the masses that you dont need to mount a 60 tooth wheel and run Ford EDIS to make MS provide accurate (and more important "tunable) spark timing.

GJ <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
WopOnTour

Time for the quarterly update I did make it to Moab and back nearly un-scathed. I came within 5 minutes of turning around 40 minutes after we left. It was really puking and dieing climbing the mountain passes. Dallas noticed it was belching black smoke and after a few stops to tweak the fuel and timing maps with the laptop, it got much better and pretty drivable.

Never had the time to get the intercooler or water injection hooked up, and I had to baby it the whole way. Anything over 7 or 8 psi and I'd get detonation. It was a workload to drive there and back.

I did loose the water pump pulley / rad fan:




The fan was balanced, but it is seriously heavy. Like about 15 lbs??? I was concerned the bearings in the pump may not handle it, but it ended up that the pulley is a press-fit onto the pump shaft and that gave out with the weight of the fan slung off the front of it so far. I spent Sat in camp swapping 2 pumps out 3 or 4 times and ended up leaving the fan off and getting the biggest electric I could find in town to get me home.

I started out swapping the electric fan for a Taurus fan in a custom shroud (details here) 6 weeks ago and ended up pulling the whole top end of the motor off again. Just wanted to inspect the IC core and the SC rotors ( I was seeing 300+ degree intake temps on the drive to/from Moab !!!). I'm also getting the IC hooked up and was gonna get the water injection nozzles installed as well. I also got the wiring harness all loomed on the motor so it looks a lot less booty-fab

I still need a nice fuse/relay box and I'll be able to finish my wiring and looming on the body. Thinking of propane instead of water injection too...

--Dan

Test firing the water injection




But, having 6 nozzles means they have to be *very* small. .006", and I kept having trouble with them plugging, even with a filter. It's like you need a clean room environment to keep something from getting in. I think a better design for the IC would be to have 2 WI nozzles. One from each end facing each other. That way they can be much bigger and less likely to clog. For now, no WI.

I have been thinking seriously about going full propane. The only downside is I still drive it long distances. Around town, or trailer'd it wouldn't be so bad, but for long distance, the reduced range and sketchy filling stations make it a hard thing to do.

Turbo's/SC sure do love the octane though. I could even plumb my IC into the propane converter instead of rad fluid. It'd be like the ricers using ice chests for the drag strip <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

For now, in lieu of WI, I'm thinking propane injection under boost. More or less like water, but propane instead. The Lightning TB has this nice big port in the bottom of it that doesn't go anywhere. So I tapped it and drilled in from the back side so the 'pane is injected behind the butterflies...



It works something like this:





But, if I meter it at the solenoid, then expansion happens in the line and it freezes up like you can see in the pic above after just 5 - 10 seconds. So I'm planning now on using a nozzle at the point of injection instead. This will keep the LPG liquid all the way up to the nozzle itself so the *full* cooling of the expanding propane goes directly into the air charge. Test 2 uses a filtered nozzle I've used for WI in the past:




And after 30 seconds, the TB and nozzle are cool, but not cold and no condensation:




Any other ideas? I'm still tossing things around. I figured this was a pretty safe test cause I can always just put in an NPT plug if I don't use it.

--Dan

dude the whole thing is SICK!!!!!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" />

your 'Migo must be a real joy to drive around!!!!!!

Nother update. I'm now legal I failed my first smog try quite badly. NOx was 9.x and only 2 was allowed. I added an EGR system and as of today I smog-legal and registered again. .98 on NOx this time Also, they didn't bat an eye at my 37" tires either. They did have to double-chock the front tires though to keep it from launching off the rollers when they started the test. I've heard stories of requiring stock sized tires for the smog dyno...

--Dan

Nice Dan glad to hear it. Almost ready to start mine up if you an believe it, might bug you later on about some fuel/spark settings to start with.

great job! dan I have a few Q's on this would you mind looking in on my post under nissan's? thanks!