What is everyone's take on painting the engine? I would also like to see some discussion on what kind of coating to use and how these diesels came from the factory paint-wise, and more.

NCDiesel

I think a painted engine would look finished and factory. Beats me if Isuzu actually painted them, but it certainly woud look good to me. There are engine paints out there for just that purpose. Color? Blue would be fine.

Just my CDN1.66ó worth. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

HEY SPENCER ALL THE DSLS CAME IN BLACK, BLOCK AND HEAD , AND IT WAS A PRETTY TOUGH PAINT , AS ZACH SAID , ABOUT THE PAINT IF YOU CAN FIND THE BRAND SEYMORE, THEY MAKE A RWALLY GOOD ENG PAINT CALLED CAST BLAST, IN GREY ,, ALUMINUM AND IN BLACK IN FLAT FINISH AND IN SEMI GLOSS, DRYS FAST AND IT IS PRETTY TOUGH, THE CAST ALUM, FINISH LOOKS GOOD ON THE VLV CXVR AND THE CRANKCAES AND THE SIDE CVR AND IT GOES WELL WITH THE FRT ENG PARTS , I STARTED PUTTING THIS ONE TOGETHER HERE TODAY ,, SO KEEP US POSTED JERRY

Napa sells Martin-Senour and all paint with the NAPA name is Martin-Senour. In the NAPA Dupli-color line they have an engine paint. Black would be great since that is original and the Trooper is gold ("Topaz") and black. Red is what I was thinking of if I don't do black. Sort of the "heart of the beast" look when you do red. It is tough to use the word "beast" when you are talking 80hp though <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Included in that line of paint is a "clear" (not a clear coat - really a clear hi-temp engine paint) that I was going to use for the aluminum to help keep the pretty shine the aluminum has right now.

"Beast" is relevant, really. Compared to a lawn tractor, 80hp is a beast. Or a chainsaw. Though I did see a video from the internet where these two big guys built a huge, V8 powered chainsaw (yep, car engined) that ripped through a 3' log in about a second......on second thought, never mind. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/drunk.gif" alt="" />


J/k <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

These engines are beastly, in a 3-toed sloth kinda way, compared to a charging yak....

Ok, I'll stop now. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Great work. Keep us posted. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I test painted two spots and the winner is flat black. The red makes it look like a cheap date on the wrong side of town <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> I also took pics of my new starter and alternator that I picked up on ebay(for a grand total of $45 plus $30 shipping!). These are Isuzu tagged and packaged remans. The alternator doesn't have a vacuum pump but my pump only has 30,000 miles on it. The great thing about buying on ebay is you don't have to give up your cores so I have my working originals in case these new ones give me trouble or for years down the road when the new ones give out. Check out the starter and alternator at my engine rebuilding photo album

Now THAT is funny !! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Need a little help. I have three cylinder head bolts that have stud extensions. I could have sworn I made notes as to which holes in the head they go in but I can't find them. Can any of you Trooper TD owners tell me which holes they go in? Here is an image to help us notate hole numbers as we discuss it. It is a torque diagram but it will work for our purposes.:

[img]http://www.antique-tractor.com/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=IDIESEL&id=img002[/img]

I think 17, 19 and 14??? Anyways, I could just put the engine together and then switch them around later as I figure it out, but I hate to move cylinder head bolts once they are tightened up.

Qustion: Anyone use thread sealants???? The manual calls for grease under the haed and on the thread but that is for reducing friction for torqueing and the sealant will serve that same purpose and seal too. What does everyone think would work best on this?

HEY SPENCER THOSE HEAD BOLTS WITH THE STUDS, 2 GOES ON THE LEFT FRONT TO HOLD THE PWR STEERING BRACKET AND THE OTHER ONE GOES ON THE RIGHT FRONT CORNER TO HOLD A BRACKET FOR THE THE A.C COMP MOUNTING BRACKET IT IS VERY CLOSE TO THE THERMO STAT HOUSING , AND I WOULDN,T USE ANY TYPE OF SEALER ON THE THREADS THEY MAY BE AWFUL HARD TO EVER REMOVE IF THEY STICK JUST A BIT OF GREASE UNDER THE HEAD BOLT FLANGE AND A BIT OF GREASE ON THE THREADS AND NOTHING ON THE HEAD GASKET SURFACE IT GOES ON DRY. JERRY

Got a lot done this weekend and additional pics have been added to my engine rebuilding page

Hope this helps,

PS: Thanks for the info on the bolts Jerry

NCDiesel