I can not find any instructions on removing and installing tie rods... Is it easy? I got the pickle fork bar, but don't really know what to do with it yet...

Let me know if you know!

Thanks,

Front what you posted, it doesn't sound like you have the skill to be messin' with a tie rod.
Take it to a shop.

If you REALLY want to try it, GET A MANUAL.
Also, toss the pickle fork and get a puller.
Even the HF ones work better than a pickle fork.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/nana.gif" alt="" /> Hell no, shops cost too much and I need to learn how to do this on my own. My manual says take it to a shop, so that's why I need to find an online resource...

I do have experience working on trucks, just never attempted this before.

Part of the problem of doing it yourself is that the truck NEEDS AN ALIGNMENT when you're done. Driving to said shop after replacement is relatively dangerous then. You also need a torque wrench and cotter pins. Compare threads and adjust to the ones you just removed; install.

Manual-- Chilton's? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" />

techinfo.toyota.com has the FSM for your truck online. (FSM = Factory Service Manual...aka Repair Manual. It is published by Toyota and covers dissasembly and reassembly of just about the entire truck...and more. much much much much better than haynes/chilton.)

you can subscribe to the site for a day for $10 and, if you are patient enough to download a whole buttload of PDFs, get the entire FSM for $10 (they cost several hundred new, i think). if you don't want to get the whole thing, you can just download the section on steering...it has the info you are looking for. (however, i strongly suggest taking the time to download the whole thing...it is an invaluable, irreplaceable resource for wrenchin' on yer truck.)

supposedly, you can get your alignment fairly close with a tape measure, but i've never tried it.

Thanks, I'll have to get that manual.

Any tips before I start pickle forking away? (or getting a puller once I am frustrated beyond repair?)

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

4Crawler has a tip for the ends that are stubborn about coming out; heat up, just enough to get the rubber smoking, then smack with a BFH. Have needle nose pliers handy to work the cotter pins.

Don't forget to chock your rear tires; use jackstands if you have 'em. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif" alt="" />

and, if you don't have jackstands, don't crawl under there...celicas are frickin' lite compared to trucks. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Dont worry about this job a chimpanzee with 2 brain cells could to it. Jack it up securely smack the old rod end off without chewing up the knuckle really bad. Measure the threads on the rod ends exposed past the clamp on both sides take the old ones out, screw the new ones in to the same point, tighten everything up and then drive it to your favorite alignment shop. There isnt going to be no dangerous or scary handling on the way to the shop.

Matt

Ok I just replaced mine this summer, so it's fairly fresh in my mind.

First off there is no need to even jack the truck, just leave it sitting on the ground with the wheels straight.

I recommend replacing the whole assy, not just the ends. This is because the whole assy is the same price or maybe even cheaper than buying the ends separately and the center part gets all rusted up and hard to adjust so you might as well replace it too.

I used a gear puller, but a tie rod puller would be easier. You can borrow these at most major auto parts stores for free so why mess with pounding away with a pickle fork.

Just leave center of the tie rod assy together and pop the ends off with a puller. If you leave the adjustment bolts tight and mark the rods drivers side and pass side then you can use the old rods for getting the new rods close to the right lenght. Plus you can save them for emergency trail spares.

You will need a torque wrench for putting the new ones on. I can't remember the excact torque required but it was around 100-120 ft-lbs, I think. Don't try and do this without a torque wrench because the union is a tapered fit and it takes a lot of tightening pass what "feels" tight.

The new tie rods will come with new castle nuts and cotter pins.

You will need an alignment after but if you are careful in getting the new rods the same lenght as the old ones, the drive to the shop shouldn't be too scary. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />