One thing that no one has mentioned is the VASTLY improved turning radius with an open knuckle design such as the D44. Beyond that I think that the strength is pretty comparable on all components except the housings. One nice thing about the Toyota axle is that it is easy to switch thirds front to rear and/or add a high pinion third to the front.

$$$$$$

It's important to compare things side by side, apple for apple...

I'm a Toyota fan, through and through, but I'm starting to believe that a person can build a very well built D44 for less than the price of a similar toyota...

just my opinion... and note that I still have a toyota axle...

Brian I think that 30 spline birfs and chromo inners still cost less than Superiors and CTMs.

Basically if you want your SAS to be as painless as possible use a Toyota axle. If you are like Erik B (read: mad skillz) you can probably save money with a Dana 44.

I can't necessarily argue with this...

the 60" HP 44 that was in my shop cost about $1500 to build w/o steering, according to the previous owner.

That's about the price of a HP 3rd and Toy axle housing.

I'm still running a toy at this point. But I still think it's incredibly important to compare *your* costs side by side before making a decision...

Not counting the stuff I already had; locker, gears...and the axle housing, every axle needs these things. I paid $635.00 to my door for the 30 spline set up.

I can't turn any tighter than rubbing my tires on the springs.

Agreed, mine turns a lot sharper than stock, in fact even with the axle 3" wider than stock, I can still rub the springs unless I run spacers with stock wheels and 33s. I modified the steering arms to get more turning capability. And I don't have to worry about breaking anything with it cranked hard over.

Things D44 has over Toy:
- Better turning radius
- Width (lots of options)
- Cheap maintenance parts ($15 calipers from NAPA, etc.)
- parts availability (just about every parts store and 4wd shop stocks D44 parts)

Depending on your tire size, you only get the better turning radius if you run a wider axle, as abnormaltoy kind of mentioned. In my case, the 37's have room to spare.

Similarities:
- strength (although you'll probably never bend a D44 housing)
- overall cost to build

Toy advantages:
- Its Toyota <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
- 3rd memeber design/swapabilty
- kingpin knuckle design, although steering arms still get ripped off occasionally.
- Easier to throw under a Toy since there are so many "kits" for it (mainly the steering is easier to set up).

Hybrid:
Good:
- width? (optional)
- turning radius
- 3rd members
Bad:
- extra cost/complexity

Also, the gear ratio issue isn't really an issue. TONS of people are running 5.29/5.38 gear combos without any problems. Your tires scrub far more in 4wd during a turn than they will from the 1.7% difference in gear ratios.

Don't get me wrong, I love Toy stuff. I just like the D44 front better than the Toy front. Most of it is just personal preference. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/coolg.gif" alt="" />

Thanks ErikB Thats kinda what I though since I posed the question to some local 4Wheelers also.

The gear difference was not going to worry me cause I ran a 4.10 and a 3.73 in a gutted (only two front buckets left in the thing, no top, tail gate, or doors) full size blazer with lock-rights in GM 10 bolts and 33" & 3" lift with no problems. The only problem I found was the frond axle tube got so bent from jumping sand dunes over in Saudi Arabia the front would not lock in anymore. I had to take the hubs apart and make it full time four wheel drive.

Not sure if the D44 knuckles have them, but the ball joint D60s have caster adjusting bushings that you can swap out to change the caster angle without affecting the pinion angle.

There is also a king pin D60 front axle kit that Rockstomper has. That will get you the added strength of the knuckle bearings vs. the ball joints.