I did the search but no results. For Delta cam owners, what are you setting the valves at? MFR says 8 and 10, but then there's the wisdom about doing the stock cams at 8 and 8, and these can allegedly be set same as stock.

If I don't hear different, I'll go with 8 and 10, to be on the safe side. Even though with the stock cam, 8 and 10 were noticeably louder, IIRC.

BTW, on this 2.3 rocker arm setup, there are little flat spring gizmos that hold the rocker arms up against the cam journals. With the Delta cam, so much is ground off that the set-screws had to be set all the way down, with just enough left to hold the locking nut. So when I first started it up, these little strap-springs were being hit by the tops of the rocker arms when they came up. (The rockers being thicker toward the valve.) I dealt with that by reshaping the flat gizmos to miss the rocker arms, and then reshaped them again because the first process had tightened their spring effect too much. Anybody been there?
THX

BTW again: runs great with this cam. Noticeable power increase. Actually idles smoother than before. (Maybe cause I fixed a timing belt issue at the same time.) <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

I just put a Delta RV cam in the 2.6 I rebuilt. While the truck idles great, with very slight valve tick, at 8 and 8, I called Delta yesterday and they said 8 and 10. When I do the first oil change, I'll probably readjust the valves and see how it goes.

I have a load ping and black (sooty) #1 plug, but that is unrelated to the cam. A lack of power has me thinking EGR system, but you don't have that problem, so...

To solve the issue with the adjusting screws, you can install a set of valve stem lash caps. The ones that came on an Isuzu 4-cyl diesel engine work perfectly.

The lash caps restore valve geometry, reducing the extreme angle between the valve stem and rocker lash adjusting screw. It also made it possible to have the adjusting screw locknut in the normal position. Not a lot of threads showing, but of course as the valves wear in, there'll be more.

I got a set of the lash caps from Jerry Lemond, he shipped them out fast and they were less than $30.

Don't have a lot of miles on it yet, but the motor's running very well so far. I left the valves a bit on the loose side for the initial break-in period, so it'll be interesting to see how much they quiet down when readjusted.

BTW, I'm curious what your power band is with the Delta Cam.

My '89 Spacecab 2.6 has tons of low end torqe, but begins to fade past 4000 rpm, and is extremely reluctant to rev past 4500 in a higher gear (such as 3rd gear hiway passing situations).

I recall the old 2.3 in my '86 Trooper (with Delta cam also) being willing to rev to 6K and quite happy too.

But of course these two motors do have different torque characteristics and I've always read the 2.6 is more of a torque motor.

Any thoughts? Maybe the cam timing is a bit advanced; slightly excessive valve lash changing the power curve; or just the stock exhaust strangling the engine???

Hey Ed, thanks for your detailed reply in the other thread. If I can get mine going properly, I'll let you know how mine revs. I have the K&N filter and full custom Magnaflow exhaust with high flow cat. Sorry I don't have any more useful input at this point...

Jon, There, I did it. I set the exhausts at .010 and the intakes at .008. It isnÆt much louder, just that with 8/8 it was unusually quiet for this motor. Runs great, again, as before. Thank you for your reply. I am sorry to hear of the bugs. Were they there before the cam?

I know that with mine, in installing the cam I failed to get the distributor right, and had to pull the distributor and reinstall it. Maybe timing is something to check. As for the sooty plug, I think of faulty plug wires, plugs, distributor cap. Is the plug in right? These aluminum heads are easy to cross-thread. I use some kind of thread-lube on mine. ItÆs silver and slimy and the plugs donÆt stick when you go to take them out, and itÆs easier to feel if you are cross-threading. I also had broken rings in a rebuild once, and that sucked oil.

EGRàI believe mine doesnÆt work, because the channel in the intake manifold is plugged with carbon. It never has, since I bought this truck. The only bad effect I know of is that it sometimes backfires when shiftingàbut IÆm not sure that is EGR either. Passed emissions fine. My point is, that might not be the cause of low power. If it was me I would look hard at timing, first.

IÆm interested to hear how it goes. THX, Rick

Ed Mc: Coolàabout the valve lash caps. I have a hard time picturing themàbut I think I will contact Jerry Lemond and ask about them, or just order a set. ItÆs not really a problem at this time, but maybe it could cause a problem down the road.

Power band. Well first of all this is a 2.6 block and head in a 2.3 suit of clothes. I had engine problems and bought a rebuilt block and head out of Spokane. S&S Engines, great guarantee, good people. I kept the old 2.3 carb setup, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, clutchàeverything, and bolted it all back on. A shop added a little electric fuel pump from SchuckÆs back by the gas tank. I think I had to modify a water pump too, by moving the pulley. So that said, when you described your 89 you could have been describing mine as well. I have never seen 6k. 4k isnÆt as strong as 3500. (But something I have to factor in also is I drive like a weenie cause I donÆt want to break anything.) Low end is strong. Midrange with the cam is noticeably stronger than before the cam. It pulls strong and smooth at any rpm. Did you have any modifications on your 2.3 (besides the cam) that could explain its willingness to rev? Maybe we are both missing out on something by not advancing distributor timing by a few degrees. I think a rule of thumb is that retarded helps low end, and advanced helps high end.

BTW I have heard of fuel pump problems (pressure low) affecting 2.6Æs with fuel injection.

I hope you will post if you find out anything. I will watch for posts under your name.

THX, Rick

Rick, the 2.6 pulls like a tractor at the low end and is surprising for a 4-cyl. I rounded a corner up a steep hill in 3rd, never expected it to pull it but it did, cleanly and gained speed handily. Just not a hi-rpm motor I guess. I would imagine it's all in the cam profile and fuel-management curve, if they wanted to build a screamer they could have. But then it'd be more peaky, not good in an SUV.

About all I had on the 2.3 besides the Delta cam was a cheap turbo muffler. Plus the cat was pretty rotted out, so not much restriction there!. I bumped the timing up a bit from stock.

That little 2.3 was also getting over 24 mpg on the hiway, can't beat that in an unaerodynamic Box!!! Maybe because the 2.3 has a bit less stroke than the 2.6, it's more rev-happy. Or maybe everything was screwed together just right on the 175,000 mile 2.3, who knows? It didn't have much internal friction, that's for sure.

At any rate, the 2.6 runs good and gets at least 20 on the hiway, I can live with that.

Of course, it can compare in no way to the 3.4 in my Trooper, but what can???? lol. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

P.S. With your carb'd 2.6, a stock 2.3 carb is not enough to properly feed it. You'd get some good gains by going to a Weber aftermarket kit. There are several types available, one's a progressive 32/36 if I recall, that would be fairly economical. The one they call the 'Outlaw' has 2-38MM downdraft throats that open at the same time. That'll certainly give your 2.6 a kick in the pants!

Try places such as www.webercarbs.com , Calmini http://www.pureisuzu.com/weber_carbs1.htm , or check on eBay; you may find a good deal on a used carb then pick up the adapter separately........ed

Thanks for the feedback. I just bought a good Craftsman timing light and multimeter, so I should have some info back up tomorrow. I'm going to start with retarding the timing and see if I can get rid of the ping first. I'm also going to check the resistance of the plug wires, and see if I can clear up the fouled plug. Man, I really want to run this thing like it's supposed to be run.

There were no problems with the truck before the rebuild. The engine had close to 190 on the clock, and my grandpa plans to take the truck to MN when I xfer to San Diego so I wanted it to be fresh for him. Also, I agree with you on the thread lube, but man, does it like to spread to everything if you get it on your finger (I use it too <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/coolg.gif" alt="" />).

Jon are you having any luck with the 2.6?

A compression test yielded low #s on 1 and 2 cylinders. I'll be pulling the head for testing by my machinist. This sucks, but the head is the only thing I didn't touch on the motor rebuild. It looks like a bad valve guide or stem seal, but time will tell. With the head out, I should be able to get a clear look at the cylider walls and check for scoring (broken ring indicator). Anyway, thanks for the concern. I'll post back when I get more info.

BTW, the timing was right on, and I did find two bad plug wires. So, it wasn't a total waste of time. Later...