Yuppers, mocha flavored from Arby's would best describe the color and consistancy. Dont taste the same though. Only other reason for buildup on the bottom of the cap is if the engine has been run very much or gotten up to temperature while driving.

All your symptoms sound classic of HG failure from the exhuast to coolant or Cracked head as mentioned. Ive had both problems in the past. Get to it, stay with it and make sure you check the head before re-assembly or you will be back in there again next month....gaurenteed.

~Darin <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />

hey i got it off..... nothing really bad. but the first two pistons had water on them.. but then i took the air chuck to the top and i hit the water jacket on accident and muck came out..... and some peices of metal it looks like..... but i had to retap the thermo. neck so it may have been from that. i doubt it tho.... i stuffed the hole.,,,, but im still trying it....

Teardown's bad nuff....installation takes a few extra measures, tho.

Them head bolt holes....if you have a wet/dry vac, tape a length of small rubber hose on it. Suck them holes dry and chase the threads real good and scrape the crud from the bottom of them with a small screwdriver or sumpthin like it. That way you will get a truer torque reading and better clamping force on the new head gasket.

Also suck all around the piston top edges to get the carbon scrapings from the wall/piston gap above the top ring. That stuff is super hard and abrasive, and it can pack in n cause probs when things starts going up and down and roundy-round again. Best to scrap each piston top while it's at top dead center, then suck it clean before moving the next up to clean.

While the head is off, spin the cam and see if it binds in the bearings before you remove the caps to examine the journals. If it doesn't spin freely, you might have a warped head.....Trouble is, if it spins free when not installed on block, it might bind when head is torqued---There really ain't no way to tell cause the rocker arms and shafts have to be installed to torque the head bolts, huh?..and once you install all that, then you can't tell cause you are fighting valve spring pressure when you attemp to turn the cam.

So, let's say you pull the head leaving the cam installed, and then turn the cam by hand....it spins ok, but once you remove the cam bearing caps and look at the journals, they seem scored...hmmm....Maybe the head is a little warped and when torqued, it makes the cam bind in her bearing bores and they get scored because of it....

Ok, if you suspect that is happening, then disassemble the rocker shafts and remove all the rockers from the shafts. Reassemble the shafts and posts without rockers and torque the head to the block without a head gasket....then turn the cam....if the cam binds, you need it align bored or a new head.

EB sells really good heads and cams. I've worn out my hood hinges showing mine to strangers....I guess you could say, "EB gives good head".... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Ted is gonna KILL me for that! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

man othing is going my way. but i got it all together.. its having a hard time starting up tho.. back fired through the carb too.... but i checked timing and its on 0' so its not off,... i didnt take the timing off just let it sit there... wasnt in the way really...but i have some bugs to look at i guess,,, thanks for all the help so far you guys....

You got two "timings" to be concerned with. One is spark timing, the other is valve timing. Either will cause backfire thru carb if one is off.

Establish TDC #1 on compression stroke at the crank pulley and see if distrib rotor is pointing at #1 plug wire on the cap....if it is, then pull the valve cover and see if both #1 intake and exhaust valve rockers are loose like they should be and the valves are fully shut with the cam on it's base circle.

If all looks ok, then delve deeper into cam timing before you slap the valve cover back on. Make certain you installed the cam sprocket and chain as per specs.

OOps, also take time and make certain plug wires are installed correctly. You could be dead-nuts on spark time and valve time, but if plug wires are crossed, it will back fire thru carb.

She should never backfire thru carb. Not even when distrib is installed properly, but at extreme limits of travel allowed by distrib lock bolt.

thanks man youve been there all the way...... im going to try it next... yes the crank is at 0 and the dist. points at #1.... i havent looked at valves yet. i have a big head ache and dont want to touch it.. but its not backfiring the the carb anymore tho..... it sounds like it wants to whirl over and give me what shes got... but im not that lucky....it only has to last till march then a 5.0 is in...

A 5.0 SWAP?!

Now you are talking!....ME TOO!

Why are we struggling over a limp wristed 22re when both of us plan real HP?

hell yeah 5.0,,,, but still debating on trans,,,,, etc... its an everyday driver and im thinking of next summer it has to go....:( college crap........ but id l like to get a runner.......we need to talk more one to one about this,, its very interesting..... a couple of my buddies have it done..... they run t-5's but i want an auto

Saw the milkshake report; MAKE SURE you change your oil and filter; it's contaminated.

Good luck on the 5.0 swap; you'll get this thing goin'!

Remember to turn on your heater and leave the radiator cap off and run it for about 20 minutes to burp ALL the air out, so your temps don't go all over the place.

top dead center on #1 and on time and still no start.... this is really pissing me off.... ive never had this many problems before....it has spark, gas,on time...... im out of ideas,.,,, <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />