for a '92 trooper automatic:
I got the crank pulley bolt off the old fashioned way -- cheater pipe resting on floor and bumping the starter (ala DoctorC #517012 12may2004 and others).

BUT NOW ... how to get the pulley off ? ! It seems real tight, and i'm afraid to pry, besides there's no real good surface for that anyway. Haven't seen this addressed in the past.

AND HOW to retorque the pulley bolt -- to 123 ft.lbs -- after i'm finished replacing the water pump and the timing belt. Is there any way around special tool isuzu manual calls for ? Tried wrapping fan belt to get off, but that slipped.

BY the way, this job is 'cause the timing belt has slid about halfway out off the top right (cam) gear and wore part way thru the timing belt cover. Anybody seen this before? I'm assuming the water pump froze up, 'cause it dumped the coolant.

thanks for any help, especially those who have done this particular job on this particular engine. pulley

Um...usually people use a harmonic dampner puller. There are threaded holes on the center part of the dampner. The puller attaches there and pulls by pushing on the crank snout.

Prying will get you nowhere, except frustrated and probably with something broken.

Good Luck,
Michael

Yeah, go get the pulley puller. Should be around $10.

You sure it's 123 ft-lbs? Not sure about trooper, but last time I messed around with the engine on my spacecab, I remember around 70 something ft-lbs.

Good luck.

When I did my engine this summer, we had to remove the starter and insert a large screw driver in the flex plate (flywheel) teeth while someone else torqued the pulley bolt.

As far as the torque specs on that bolt...If memory serves me it is up around ninety to a hundred something but don't quote me.

I've removed the crank pulley on a '95 3.2l Rodeo twice now by hand.

I looked for the item Michael Clark described and could not find one that would fit in the space allowed or work with that vehicles pulley period.

I sprayed some WD-40 around the back where the pulley comes to rest and let it soak awhile.

I then reached down by hand and rocked forward-to-back and side-to-side. It took awhile and then it just popped off.

I coated the inside with anti-seize compound so the next removal might be easier. The 2nd time came a couple of yrs. later and it was not as tough as the first and was removed again simply by tugging by hand.

It takes awhile, but it will eventually pop off.

Whatever it is, make sure you get it that tight when you put it back on. I didn't on mine...the nut loosened and caused the balancer to wobble...chewing up a serp belt. And the wobbling caused some interesting carving on the balancer. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />

Lesson: Get it freakin' tight.

yeh, the isuzu manual says 123 ft.lbs.
and yeh, i'm getting the puller (thanks mlclark). figured that'd be the way but not certain for this pulley.

any ideas about holding crank? considering strap-wrench-fitted-with-fan-belt tool i saw in some previous post, but sceptical it'll hold to 123 ft.lbs.
I'm a bit antzy about the starter ring gear teeth getting tweeked...and there where am i.

BTW, Kent-moore, the toolmaker for special isuzu tools wants $177 plus shipping for that special crankholder/flange remover tool. yikes!

thanks

Manual or Auto?

Manual, put it in gear (5th would be nice) and set the parking brake. If that is not enough, put it in 4wd, in gear, set the brake and have someone stand on them too.

Auto, well...you could drop some cotton rope in a spark plug hole and then rotate the engine. The rope will prevent the piston from coming all the way up, effectively locking the crank in place.

All in all, 123ft-lb is really not that tight.

Michael

I understand your skepticism with regards to using the screwdriver in the flywheel teeth...I was warey as well...until I saw it up close and personal like. It is strong and considering it is only your "human" strenth wrenching on that bolt and not the torque an engine provides...well...

Just my two cents...Mine wasn't hurt in the least...

Not sure this will work with a regular belt pulley, but on my 3.2 liter with a serpentine belt I used a pipe wrench to hold the crank while removing and tightening the crank bolt. Used some dense ?ö to 5/16ö fiberboard to protect the belt side of the pulley from the pipe wrench teeth, I slipped the end of the pipe wrench movable jaw inside the pulley. Tightened the wrench down so that the jaws would sort of clamp the outer edge of the pulley, when a little side pressure was applied to the pipe wrench, the pulley wasnÆt going anywhere. I used a chain link corner fence post over the pipe wrench handle for leverage. Perhaps with the belt or belts wrapped around the drive shaft pulley to protect it from the pipe wrench and then the fiberboard on top of the belts and pulley, it could work for you?