automatic or manual? mine's automatic, which would make a difference, right? or not?

thanks

its fuzzy now, but i think i held the crank pulley with edc's tool attached a breaker bar and a pipe and wedged it against the frame. then i was able to torque the bolt down. could you do this with the puller as well?

sounds promising...but what is edc's tool? thanks for help and suggestions

Ed C is a clever, resourceful, and all-around nice guy on the board who took some measurements of his crank pulley and had a shop cut some metal to form a tool to fit inside the pulley so that one could tighten and loosen it as needed. Through his generosity he made a couple of extra ones and they are "floating" around. Needless to say, I have one of them. The practice has been for the person wanting it to pay shipping for the tool and the person who has it to send it on. Search for EdC and you should be able to find tons of info on it. I'm sure you could also direct any questions to Ed. If he's still on the board, I'm sure he'd be happy to respond.

It didn't fit exactly flush on my pulley, but it worked well enough that with the help of another pair of hands, I was able to replace my water pump.

If you want it, PM me your address and I'll send it on. Taro

This thread started out as a "how to get the pulley off" thread. Ed's tool came into the conversation a few posts up. If my memory serves me right, his tool was designed to break loose the 24mm bolt on the end of the crank pulley; not to serves as a crank pulley puller. I may stand corrected about the 2nd part. As a tool that breaks loose the crank bolt, I believe it was designed to work on '96 and possibly > models of the 3.2 liter.

It will not work on a '95 as the face of the '95 pulley is different. I designed and built one for the '95 Rodeo 3.2l using a 2 length of wolmonized lumber. The front of the pulley has an oval shape. On each end is a small hole. You drill holes in the 2 x 6 to line up with the pulley holes. I drilled two 15/32 holes. You then tap in plastic bushings into the holes. 3 in. clevis pins go thru the board, bushings and finally into the holes on the pulley. The bushings and pins are avail. at Home Depot in the hardware section. Another hole(larger) is then drilled in between the two smaller hole for your socket(24mm) and ext. to go thru. You then hammer in 4 mending plates(also avail. at Home Depot) on each end on the board - both sides. These keep the board from coming apart as torque is applied when loosening the crank pulley bolt.

When it's time to loosen the 24mm crank pulley bolt(3.2 motor), turn the engine manually clockwise using the 24mm crank pulley bolt until the 2 holes on the pulley are at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock. Now install your tool onto the crank pulley. Run another length of board(about 20" long) under the pulley board you just build at the left side(as viewed from the front). Now when you loosen the crank pulley bolt, the pulley board will stop against the piece you just placed underneath the left end and provide resistance. The bolt pops loose.

I was never too wild about the "tapping the starter" approach. Too many things can go wrong.

Ed C's (now I get it) posts appear to be a treasure trove; it'll be awhile before i can get through it all.

Thanks for the tips.

I had to pull the harmonic balancer of my daughterÆs car. I bought a cheap pulley puller and made it work. It took a lot of wrenching with a cheater bar. I would recommend buying a Craftsman pulley puller from Sears. More money, better quality, easier. Your can rent these also, but its cost almost as much to rent as to buy.

To install the pulley you can get it started buy tightening the pulley bolt that threads into the crank. I made a tool out of 1/4" X 1" flat bar 24" long. About 16 inches from one end I drilled a pivot point and attached another piece 8" inches long. It makes a kinda scissor joint. On the end of the two pieces I installed a 2" stud bolt.

The stud bolts should slip into the slots on the pulley. It forms a spanner type wrench that holds the pulley while you tighten the pulley bolt.

Picture?
I'm having a bit of a problem actually visualizing how all the pieces of your tool all go together.

?? And, exactly why does this "scissor"-spanner approach safely hold the crank/pulley from rotating while a single bar can't. ?? And...it's good for the 123 ft.lbs. needed to retorque?

Any chance you've got a picture? or drawing?

Thanks.

Here's a sketch.

spanner wrench.jpg

I picked up the parts for fabricating this spanner wrench at my local Lowe's. For the studs I drilled and tapped the holes in the flat bar and locked them on with a nut. The stud bolts work well because their heat treated and won't bend easily. For the pivot point I used a bolt and nut loosely tightened.

The stud bolts should fit into the pulley slots. You'll have to position the wrench so it opposes the forces from tightening the pulley bolt.

I think this will work for you, but it's hard to say without knowing what your pulley looks like.

Have you got a picture?

no i don't have a picture, but my 92 trooper has a pulley similar to the one in Ed C's pictures. I have two threaded holes (8mm x1.25), which are for removing the pulley with a harmonic balancer puller.

I would think these could be used to install a tool similar to your's and Isuzu95's; simply use the appropriate length bolt to hold the arms onto the pulley.

BUT here's my big question...
how important is it to design the tool so that the same (equal) pressure is exerted on each bolt (and therefore each threaded hole)? I'm thinking it could be very important so as not to overstress one hole over the other and risk either breaking/bending a bolt, and/or even distorting the hole casting (possible?)

I'm not engineer knowledgeable, but i'm thinking if each leg was the same length as the distance between the bolts (diameter), this would effectively create an equalateral triangle of sorts and the pressure transmitted would be equal.

Anybody with more expertise than me -- what do you think??