This thread started out as a "how to get the pulley off" thread. Ed's tool came into the conversation a few posts up. If my memory serves me right, his tool was designed to break loose the 24mm bolt on the end of the crank pulley; not to serves as a crank pulley puller. I may stand corrected about the 2nd part. As a tool that breaks loose the crank bolt, I believe it was designed to work on '96 and possibly > models of the 3.2 liter.

It will not work on a '95 as the face of the '95 pulley is different. I designed and built one for the '95 Rodeo 3.2l using a 2 length of wolmonized lumber. The front of the pulley has an oval shape. On each end is a small hole. You drill holes in the 2 x 6 to line up with the pulley holes. I drilled two 15/32 holes. You then tap in plastic bushings into the holes. 3 in. clevis pins go thru the board, bushings and finally into the holes on the pulley. The bushings and pins are avail. at Home Depot in the hardware section. Another hole(larger) is then drilled in between the two smaller hole for your socket(24mm) and ext. to go thru. You then hammer in 4 mending plates(also avail. at Home Depot) on each end on the board - both sides. These keep the board from coming apart as torque is applied when loosening the crank pulley bolt.

When it's time to loosen the 24mm crank pulley bolt(3.2 motor), turn the engine manually clockwise using the 24mm crank pulley bolt until the 2 holes on the pulley are at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock. Now install your tool onto the crank pulley. Run another length of board(about 20" long) under the pulley board you just build at the left side(as viewed from the front). Now when you loosen the crank pulley bolt, the pulley board will stop against the piece you just placed underneath the left end and provide resistance. The bolt pops loose.

I was never too wild about the "tapping the starter" approach. Too many things can go wrong.