Well, you can tell from the number of views, that this topic definitely has some interest! My intent is to explore all possibilities, and try as many as possible, and report back my experiences, and elicit you all's opinions, ideas and reviews.
So far, I've been happily amazed at the openness and creativity out there.




Now there's an example. One man's headache is different from another's (or something like that).
I'm reluctant go this route 'cause I just replaced the ignition wires with those super-finned jobs that are now a bear to even move, and I'm sure I'd bust the wire and/or the connector for sure.

I've read your solution before, and I'm sure it's the right one for you, and probably many others, too. That's one of the great things about this forum. I'm getting a number of great ideas, as are the other viewers.

Thanks for the opportunity.

Thanks for taking the time and effort to further explain. It's helped.

I can see how it might work for me.

My intent is to explore all possibilities, and try as many as possible, and report back my experiences,

I understand that, but...the bottom line is that this is not rocket science. It is a crank pulley. We have been pulling these things off of engines since the first one was ever installed.

The time you have spent exploring your options would have gotten the pulley off and back on by now and you could have gotten on with your life. Wood, bolts, and wrenches used improperly would all do it. So would my suggestion, but you dismissed it because you did not want to pull a boot off a spark plug. Frankly, I am not sure exactly what you are wanting to hear.

To each their own, but this seems to be something that is taking way more energy than it ever should.

Michael

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> Geeze... can you ease up on me a little...


"...used improperly..."? Assume that's a typo, but it also makes my point, I quess, I want to be sure of what I'm reading/doing before I do it. This is not just for this time, it is more about getting the best solution so next time I'll be ready with it already built, and not have to scramble around again. And in the mean time, maybe this discussion will help someone else -- from the number of views, I suspect that's true.



Really, I didn't dismiss your suggestion at all. I explained why I'm reluctant to use it, and it was a very valid reason, for me...if you've ever spent dealer prices for those wires. Plus, even your post indicated some possible problems with stuffing rope down into the cylinder,i.e. with valves,etc, that I'd rather not have to deal with, unless I have to.
Nor, by the way, have I dismissed any of the other good ideas, either.

Really, I'm confused by your seeming p.o.'d attitude. I'm just trying to learn... and perhaps help others in the same predicament. I'm sorry you've taken offense to my not wanting to use your idea. I don't mean any offense at all. Perhaps I've committed some 4x4wire forum goof? Let me know, if I have.

The pulley [i] is [/i] off. My first post started out that I got the bolt off by bumping the starter. And later I thanked you for the HarmonicBalancerPuller idea, and used it.



I'm waiting to hear what I have been hearing. Some good ideas from some good people. Including you, if you'd just ease up on me a bit.



Well, I'm happy I've pursued it, and hope to continue, if I can, but I've used up today's time on this to continue now.

I do want to thank you again for your help. The last thing I want is to get in to a fight with a moderator, or any one else, for that matter.

I also want to THANK everyone else who has responded with some great, positive ideas! Please keep them coming.

"...used improperly..."? Assume that's a typo, but it also makes my point, I quess, I want to be sure of what I'm reading/doing before I do it.



First of all, pipe wrenches belong no where near a vehicle. They have no practical application in the automotive world. They are for plumbing and should remain there. Wedged in the engine compartment with a section of 2" copper tube over the handle is really not their intended purpose.

Second of all, they really belong nowhere near the outer edge of a crank pulley, if you want to retain the integrety of the pulley.

Thirdly, that is not how you use a pipe wrench. It is loaded in the wrong direction, and even with the wood pads, it is putting a lot of localized stress on that pulley. The worst result would be making the pulley not nearly as round as it was when you started.

Don't get me wrong. If the above worked for whomever did it, fine. But it is not something I would do, nor would I recommend it.

As for the rope trick, if you followed what I told you, there is minimal risk of hurting anything. I actually doubt you could bend valves if they were open. But, since this is the internet, we get to disclaimer everthing to prevent the "You did not tell me..." from someone who did not fully understand what they were doing.

Including you, if you'd just ease up on me a bit.

My intention was not to be harsh, but to get you to get out there and get the job done. As I said, this is not rocket science. It has been explored many times before and all of these solutions, in one form or another, have been brought up.

I was also confused because you kept coming back looking for more information. Basiclly, you have it all. There is no other magical secret answer out there. That is why I asked. If there was something you were looking for, I would be more than happy to tell you what you wanted to hear just to make you happy. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Michael

This post started out as a "how to get the pulley off". The original poster had used the "bump the starter trick" and it appeared that the 24mm bolt was out.

Then somehow we got into the various strategies one could use to break the 24mm crank pulley bolt loose.

So my question now is are you still having trouble removing the pulley AFTER removing the 24mm bolt or what?

I said it earlier; I'll say it again, the pulley will pop off with some good ole-fashion tugging. Been there, done that. Never had to use any kind of harmonic puller.

The fiberboard takes all the punishment on the outside of the pulley, never had any damage to the belt surface. The inside of the pulley gets a little scratched, but what does it hurt, maybe a little rust? It is the quickest and easiest way I could find to remove and tighten the crank pulley bolt. Regular wood this thin will crack and splinter from the belt grooves and the teeth on the pipe wrench along with the 120+ foot lbs needed to torque the bolt back on and the 200+ foot lbs needed to break loose a bolt that has been there a while. The fiberboard is pretty tough as long as you donÆt get it wet and will give enough on the belt groves so nothing is damaged.