Seeing how you got that bolt so tight that it snapped the head off, you may have overloaded the bolt and hole threads and what's left of the bolt might be really hard to get out.

So before you start drilling, find you a flat, round punch just small enuff to ease in the hole and not touch the threads. Then smack the bolt hard with a medium sized hammer. That will unload the bolt and hole threads making it easier to get out. Don't use a pointed punch or it will flare the bolt and make it even tighter.

Just going from memory here but aren't those studs? If so just take a hammer and a knock the broken one out and replace it with a grade 8 bolt.

SSSHHHHH! He was gonna discover that if/when he used the punch n hammer, like I suggested. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Seriously, come to think of it, I believe you are right.

The upper BJs have studs and the lower ones have bolts. The upper BJ torque value is 18 ft lbs and the lower BJ torque value is 43 ft lbs. Where the lower BJ connects to the lower A-arm is a tapered stub that gets a castle nut, torque value is 105 ft lbs. This information is taken from my Toyota FSM for my 90!!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Sorry to say this but I do not think the Hayes manual is wrong, most of their info comes from the Toyotas FSM, in fact a lot of the charts are copies of the ones from the factory FSMs. I think you just read it wrong. Don't get me wrong, I think that the Hayes, Chiltons, and Clymer are POS and not worth the paper they are printed on!!!!!!

It's funny, my Haynes Page 10B-1 says:

Front suspension (1986 & later):

1) Lower Suspension arm to lower balljoint : 43
2) Lower balljoint to steering knuckle : 105

So unless I'm really mix up, I still think #1) above is the castle nut, & #2) above are the 4 bolts, no?

If not, Haynes got a mis-print!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />

Mis-print, they are reversed!!! That sucks!!!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

To whoever who have/use HAYNES, go to page 10B-1 & change the #'s now. If not, you will end up doing the same thing like I did. Pain in the BUTT!!!

Lower Suspension arm to Lower Balljoint (castle nut): 105ft/lbs (NOT 43 as in the book <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />)
Upper Suspension arm to Upper Balljoint (castle nut): 105ft/lbs (NOT 25 as in the book <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />)
Lower Balljoint to Steering Knuckle (4 bolts): 43ft/lbs (NOT 105 as in the book <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />)
Upper Balljoint to Steering Knuckle (4 studs): 25ft/lbs (NOT 105 as in the book <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />)

There must be more misprint... who knows where they are. But at least every little bit helps. Be careful. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif" alt="" />

(Correct me if # are still wrong.)EDITED.

Nope, you got it wrong yerself.

Suspension arm, control arm...same-same.

Ball joint bolts to it with 4 bolts....4 small bolts.

Come on, you know the larger the bolt, the higher the torque usually. There is no way you should ever torque any little bolts like those to 105.

The lower BJ does not bolt to the A-arm (Suspension arm, control arm...same-same) with the four bolts, it bolts to the steering knuckle with the four bolts and the A-arm (Suspension arm, control arm...same-same) with the single large moving BJ stub with the castle nut!!!!