When I did mine I remember we placed the puck upside down and the screws became too short. The rubber piece has to go inside the puck for the right lenght to be achieved.

I have the block tapered end down, and cup end up so that the bushing goes into the block. If the bottom was tapered more it would fit flush into the frame mount indention. I think if I can cut the bushing in half some how it should allow me enough room.

I think it's the way around. I think, for what I can remember, the flat part goes up and the shallow part goes down with the body rubber pad in it. The round donut is eliminated. I know the round donut is eliminated because I have them stored in my tool box. You should end up with about 1/4 inch or maybe a little more of screweable area from the screw at the bottom.

Mar,

I do not understand, your saying take the top rubber bushing off (the one that is next to the body), put the lift block against the body tapered end up(just so I understand when I say tapered up, think of a rocket, narrow end up) then the bushung that was next to the body, then the frame mount, then washer, then nut?


Keith

That sounds pretty much the case. I remember well that I eliminated the hard rubber mount 'cause the screw became too short. The rubber part on the bottom sounds right 'cause that would deaden the vibration to the body. I'm trying to picture my truck in my head, it's not here with me, and I see the bottom being more open than the top which means the open shallow part where the rubber fits into perfectly faces down.

When I did mine I left the top bushing on there then I put the lift puck on and I cut the lower bushing in half and used 1/2 of it then I used the original washer and nut. I used lock tight and made sure I tightened all of the body bolts the same so you get the same measurments all the way around. This way the doors open & close smoothly. If need be, I would leave the top bushing and eliminate the bottom one. You need some sort of cusion in between the lift puck and the body. Well, anyway ...... good luck.

yup mine sits right on the puck and no I don't have any vibes or anything. It was the only way I could get the nuts on the studs.

I figure they could be right. I did have about 1/4 to 1/4 inch left on the screw on the bottom, so if you cut the hard rubber in half, it would give you enough space to put in the knot. I was intending to put in the second knot, but gave up on the idea and that is why I was left with that much screw in the bottom. I also thought of another idea, if you make the thread to the bottom 1/2 inch of screw on the botton, you could place the whole rubber spacer and get more lift, but I don't know if the thread would be too thin.

Got R done!

I had them in upside down. The lift block goes tapered side up and fits up into the body, then the rubber bushing sits between the lift block and frame mount. Seems so simple now. it was still a tight fit. Cranked them all down the same.

And my nuts are 22 mm. If any of you do this make sure you check before you purchase a socket. Most standard set only go uo to 20 mm. It could be 20, 21 or 22. and you definitely need a deep well.

Now on to the spring lift. Gonna work on that this week. I will post some pictures when I get done.

Thanks for the help!

That's great. I'm sure you feel happy just looking at it, I know I did... Suspension is easier, but you will need a spring suppressor. Make sure you align the strut in a way that it depicts the bottom holes and top holes so it fits back easily. You will need a bar to push down on the lower control arm to get the strut in after the lift. I had to loosen the stabilizer bar when I put in the extra 1" spacers and it was a mess to get the bar's screw back in.