I made an improvement that does not address the winding part of the problem directly, but it has definitely improved the "closing the daggum belt in the door" problem. I had closed the door on the plastic piece that protects the stitched folds ("replace this seatbelt if you can read this") enough to crack it, so I removed it (the plastic cover). I then unbolted the floor anchor, took a 12" or so long piece or 1.25" (or 1.5"?) vinyl tubing and pulled the seatbelt through. This was a *very* tight fit and required fishing the end of the belt and the metal tab though the tubing with some coat hanger. I then rebolted the belt to the floor and pushed the tubing back over the metal tab at the floor.

This does a couple of things. Early on, the way the tubing fit over the metal tab did a great job of holding the belt straight up - keeping the belt out of the way of the door and taking some of the weight that the retractor has to pull. The plastic has loosened up so it does not stand up as straight now (2 years or so later). Also, this protects that stitched safety fold thingy from the abuse of the door - I really do not think it will interfere with the function of that bit in the event of a crash. I can't remember the last time I closed the door on the driver side seat belt. In fact, it is time to do it on the passenger side...

I don't have a picture of it, but it looks a bit like this :


That is how I had the inboard end of the seatbelt set up before I got a proper, T-100 bucket seat in there.

Scott