I just replaced the head gasket in my '86 4Runner with a 22re. I'm having some trouble getting the timing chain sprocket back into position on the camshaft. It seems like the chain is suddenly too short to reach the camshaft. I've already torqued the head bolts. The alignment tab is lined up right where it should be, so I'm guessing that neither the cam nor the crankshaft have moved while they were separated, but the sprocket just won't seat onto the end of the cam. Any suggestions?

Thanks.

Hi,
Yes your tensioner needs to be pushed in.
I use a long extention and push it in while I put the sprocket on.
Sometimes it helps to turn the crank a little.
Having 3 hands helps. You'll figure it out... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

Pull up on the upper sprocket and chain while you roll the crank pulley backwards(counter clockwise) 90 degrees and see if the chain get's suddenly longer on the driver's side.

It will drop down on that side and kink just under the crank gear when you remove the upper gear and allow it to rest on the chain guides.

There is a shallow ridge cast into the t-cover that is supposed to prevent the chain from sagging off the gear there, but it can get worn down if the chain was ever too loose or broke in operation.

Make sure to keep tension up on the chain/sprocket as you return the crank pully to 0.

Thanks for the help, guys... much appreciated. I'll let y'all know how it goes.

Better make sure you have the correct length of timing chain too. Weren't the deck heights different or changed sometime around the 84-85 models?

that camshaft notch shoulnt be exactly at 12 o'clock usually i found it is about 11:45 .... if that helps any ...make sure you dont have a kink in the chain at the crank sprocket

The factory service manual says if that happens to just pull up on the cam sprocket while rolling the crankshaft back and forth a few times.

I had the same problem when replacing my head. It works just as the manual said. Just get a socket on the cranshaft pulley bolt and rock it back and fourth while pulling up on the cam sprocket and it will eventually work its way up high enough.

Thanks Coop,

But,

If the rocking produces the slack you need to install the cam sprocket, then stop to make sure the timing marks still line up.

It's possible to walk chain slack to the driver's side of the crank gear and then throw off the valve timing by "rocking" the crank too far clockwise.

If that produces enuff slack to allow install of the cam sprocket, then make sure the crank is at 0 and the cam dowel straight up and there is NO slack in the drivers side of the chain once all is fitted.

I got her all back together and she ran great... for about five minutes. It looks like I was overconfident in the condition of my bottom end. My con-rod bearings and piston rings failed once cylinders 1, 3, and 4 started firing normally(yes, it was running on only one cylinder; my compression test showed 40 psi in all but the #2 cylinder which was at 125psi). The body wasn't in great shape, she needed a new radiator, the rear axle had a lot of shlop, and the front and rear main seals were starting to leak, so I decided I'm going to send my trusty ol' 4Runner with 430,000 miles to the bone-yard. She's lived a good life and was a lot of fun in the meantime...

Now, I'm without a vehicle to wheel in. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> Unfortunately, my Honda Insight just doesn't cut it when the going gets tough; I've already replaced the oil pan once after hitting it on a rock(the pan cracked right in half). Man, are those magnesium oil pans expensive...

I'll be on the lookout for a 4Runner of similar vintage(I love the removable hardtop). I'll keep y'all posted with news of any new project vehicles I find. Maybe I'll scare one up that doesn't have quite so many miles on it.

Happy wheeling, everyone.