If you look on the compressor its self, there should be 2 wires, atleast on the earlier troops and rodeos with the 2.8s and 3.1s, one should be a power, and the other a ground. If I remember right, those wires were only 12 guage or so, not exactly heavy duty. A 25 amp switch should be fine. A lot of the newer systems are the same way. If the compressor doesnt have an actual plug, then they have a hot wire coming to the clutch, and a ground wire on the body. I would find it much easier to go through wires under the engine compartment then ripping the dash apart to find them. If you want to wire a relay in, go for it, but then you are running more wires and have to buy the relay. Not to mention you then have to find a 12 volt source to tap into, and then ground the relay and switch if you go with a lighted switch. If you want to use a relay, heres where to plug each wire on the relay using a common 5 pin auto relay:
87 - wire going to spiced compressor power wire
30 - wire comming from splice compressor power wire
85 - ground
86 - to load terminal on switch
87a - not used

For the 3 prong lighted switch:
power - to a 12 volt power source (fuse block?)
Load - to terminal 86 on relay
ground - to a good ground source.

You can go this route, but I dont think its completely necessary. Actually its probably a bit overkill. I did something similar to this to disable the TOD system on my explorer. I wanted an actual 2wd vehicle and not a permanent AWD with the ability to run 4 hi and 4 lo. Now I have awd, 4 hi, 4 lo, 2 hi and 2 lo. But I still believe you can just put a 30 amp switch inline and be fine. The lighted switch will be nice because you will know when the ac is on or off.

Dan


92 Rodeo, 3.1 TB crank, custom bumpstop spacers, DOR shackles, Flipped ball joints, D44 Rear, 4.56s and new magnaflow cat and dynomax ultraflow muffler Since been replaced by a 2 door Explorer on 31's shackles, cranked torsion bars and full exhaust