I have a 1980 Toy with a 20R that is difficult to crank when the air temperature is in hte 30s or 40s. When I attempt to crank it for the first time, it floods very easily. Many years ago when I was running an older carbuerated vehicle, I seem to remember a special "sequence" of tapping the accelerator to get it to crank without flooding that first time.

Anyone got any suggestions?

I put the pedal ONCE to the floor, then halfway, turn the key. And that's at MINUS 20-40.

You might need a new AAP diaphragm tho'. See if your dipstick smells like fuel and see if you have sooty exhaust and carb deposits. If so, get 'er done!

kewlynx, I remember you telling me about the aap. Not to still the post but, what is a aap and where is it on the carb? I did replace this diaphram thing located next to the fuel intake,,,with this spring that is in it. I took the carb off and at the base had alot of carb. build up. Cleaned it all and runs fine. I also lined up the two lines on the choke....it was way off. Seems to run better...but, I havent been to the Den...I think my clutch is slipping. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

No prob. The Aux Air Pump is on the inboard side of the carb; has 3 screws and a vac hose going to it. It supposed to function until the carb warms up. If it's bad, it'll keep dumping fuel, which is why you check the smell of your oil. Other thing that'll do it is if the needle valve is out of adjustment, ie, there's no gas in the sight glass BEFORE you start the rig for the day.

The little rebuild kit offered at NAPA is around $50.

you know when I got my truck it has a external fuel pump right outside the gas tank. I thought I read in my haynes that it was to be inside the tank...anyhow, The site glass showed that is was filled all the way up. I bought a gass regalater and turned it down to about 2 to 2 1/2 psi. to get the fuel in their to sit half way like the books says it should.

Yeah, if the truck is configured stock, there's a pickup unit in the tank, then the mechanical one on the head if you're carbied. Fuel pressure for carbies is 4-7 psi. This is why if you convert to EFI that the fuel system is also a consideration, not just the electrical portion. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

i think '80 got the pump on the side of the head, '79 was the only year with a carb AND an in-take fuel pump <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />

I wonder if that's what they refer to as the Type I pump; has the 2 'towers' on the top.....

There is a Type I and Type II fuel pump on the engine side of things, but I don't know what application the Type I was for. Both fit on the side of the head; have the 'flipper'.

I didn't see a mechanical fuel pump anywhere...I looked at the block and can't seem to find a block off plate as well. The fuel line comes from under the truck to the fuel filter and then to the carb. The PO rebuilt the engine a about two years ago. The smog pump was gone when I bought it for $700.00 about two years ago. If i crank up the in-line pressure regulater like you said to 3 or 4 psi..It fills the site glass all the way up...at 2 1/2 the fuel sits about level like the books says it should..After I replace the clutch...I will get that rebuild kit from napa like posted earlier and see if that will help. I have no power anywhere. The Cat converter is gone to..It had a cherry bomb muffler...but I changed that out for a used stock one. That thing sacred all the deer away...they knew I was coming with that skinney muffler.

Well, sounds like you've got it dialed in for what makes it happy at least. Maybe the 20R never had the head mounted fuel pump? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> I worked on a 21R-U a couple years ago; had the Type I on it. Hmmph.

Snickered about your muffler (Red-Green deer alert!). If you go over a 2-1/4" you lose a bit of the low band; you need some back pressure.
Sounds like with your ol' gal that it's time to do a compression and leakdown check to see how things look.