I stumbled accross this sight while googling up options to gain some power for my 94 4X4. I'd always dealt with the weak factory mill, since the car is a daily driver, and I don't often haul heavy loads. That said, I've been building a boat for the past year, and when finished, I'm looking at a combined boat/trailer weight of 2,000#+, with the fuel tanks in the boat filled, closer to 3,000#, not to mention fishing gear in the truck.

So, my quest for more power w/o breaking the bank, blowing the mill, or trashing the tranny. I have 120k on the odo, and an auto tranny.

Since I'm due to go through the truck for the 120k service, I was thinking of improving things under the hood while I'm in there. From what I've found, I'm thinking a Downer header set, free flow exhaust, and a 3mm over bore to the throttle body.

What I'd like to do as second stage improvement is go to oversize valves in the head, and deck them to bump up the compression to 9.5 or 10 to 1. But since there is already 120k on the mill, and I'd likely have to dish the pistons to clear the valves, I'm thinking of getting a junkyard motor to rebuild.

First of all, welcome to 4x4wire...

Second... well... Getting power out of the 3.0 is like winning the lottery - you can dream about it all you want, but it simply isn't gonna happen. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Okay - that's not entirely true... you can get *some* power from the 3.0 with the mod's you suggested, but I don't think you'll be impressed with the return on investment.

My last 3.0 had ported heads, free flow intake and exhaust, aftermarket ignition... It was still a dog under 4K rpms.

My current 3.0 has the larger throttle body, downey headers, free flow exhaust, K&N Filter, etc... It's s dog below 4K rpms...

Each of these engines had more power than stock... but nothing spectacular. You may get 20hp from all of those mods, you may get 30... but almost all of it will be at 3500rpms and above... Probably not where you want it for towing.

Is that good news? Bad news? That's up to you. Expect to invest at least 2K on headers, exhaust and headwork... That doesn't include installation labor for the heads ($1k is what I paid, with new head bolts) that's about $100/hp. Add another $500 for intake mods.. If you pay to have it done, you're looking at over $3500.

Don't get me wrong... I really like the 3.0. But power and fuel efficiency are not it's forte's... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Thanks for the welcome.

From what I've read, yeah, I know there is no easy or cheap way to make big power from the 3.0. The 93 4 runner that the 94 truck replaced was also a dog with the 3.0, but they do run and run.

But, if I could gain an extra 10% or so, for a grand or two, it would be worth it. I do all my own service and work on the truck, so I don't have to add labor to equipment costs.

I just don't want to plunk down for a 3/4 ton with a turbo diesel, though I think I'll end up doing just that a few years down the road.

If you don't mind spending money, and want to keep it all toyota, consider a 3.4 swap. Total investment will be similar if you can find a buyer for your 3.0. There are a few people on this board who have done them already and have been very pleased. With headers, a good exhaust and intake, you're looking at ~200HP and better MPG. Check out posts by TeamShiftPoint or 93CoRunner for more info!

bkg

Check out http://www.offroadsolutions.com/ for 3.4L swap info and parts. Not sure how hard it would be to come by a 3.4L motor up where you are though, but if you could you would be money ahead of souping up your 3.slow.

Power/3.0 VZE!!! These words do not go together, do not waste the money, do a 3.4 swap!!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Depending on your driving habits regearing may be your best towing option..

Since you rig is an auto, towing isn't going to be easy regardless of a 3.0 build up or 3.4 swap, the auto tranny's just seam to suck up what little power the 3.0's have. This being said you could do it with your 3.0. I used to tow a 22' open bow ski boat with a 22r, so your 3.0 should do better even being an auto.

I know a lot of people have built up the 3.0 and have been disapointed with the motor cost vs. power gain, however I have been pleased(not surprised) with the modest power gains that I have gotten with my engine mods. My mods up until the Downey headers were a K&N Filtercharger and Jacobs ognition. Not a whole lot of noticeable power, but a 2-3 bump in mpg. The notice in power came when I added Downey headers, a Magnaflow hi-flow cat, and a turbo 2 chamber muffler(had the highflow but it reduced my low end torque to much), along with a complete head rebuild. The cyl's were also bored out .020 after a failed water crossing on Fordyce trail when it was new in '90. My rig weighs over 4600 lbs without gear or passengers, and when loaded I can pass people on the highway when climbing the Sierra's with relative ease, where before I manily stayed to the right and passed very few people, and I am still averaging 17mpg combined when I am not deep into the throttle.

My cost this past spring was about $1500 (headers, exaust, heads, gaskets, t-belt, sensors, etc.,) with doing the work myself. The jacobs and K&N Filtercharger was about another $800. I had looked into the 3.4 swap before doing the heads, and it wasn't feasable. The cost for the harness conversion kit from ORS was going to run about $2K, headers and exhaust work was another $700, the engine was going to run about $1700. It was going to run about $4500-5K to do the job. The $2300 I have invested in mine is a bargain by comparison. I would think that for under $3k you could build a 3.0 to do what you need/want it to for the mean time, as long as you put a tranny cooler and have the right gear to tire ratio. Then again for the $3k you could probably get a used 70's or 80' Chevy/Ford 1/2 ton with a V8 in it, to tow the boat.

<--- GAVE UP TRYING TO TOW ANYTHING WITH A TOYOTA. Get a truck that was ment to tow. I chose a powerstroke diesel. Now all my Toyota's enjoy a flat bed car hauler ride to and from 4wheeling. Amazing what fun a guy can have when he knows he doesnt have to drive his wheeling truck 100 miles on asphault with boggers aired down to 7 psi... and I get 13-15 MPG with my Toyota in tow. Sorry to all the die-hards, but nothing beats the comfort and power of a full-sized crewcab diesel.

Greetings,
You all knew that I'd reply to this one!
Ok Paul, the 3.slo attached to a auto trans is a dog no other words can describe it, if it were a manual trans there'd be more hope but that auto trans just sucks the power right out of the powerless 3.0! I'm a 3.0 lover I swear by them, the low end torque is great and they last forever, the biggest problems w/the 3.0 is the engine can't breathe, the cross over is so restrictive and mis - engineered,and the air intake can suck in enough air and that headgasket recall. If you were to replace that crossover, get yourself some headers, high-flo cat w/2 1/2" exhaust, replace that air intake, get your heads redone - ported & polished..,get your t-body bored out, high performance ignition, it might give you what your looking for! With what I did to my beast I am very pleased with. Will she run the 1/4 mile in 8 seconds? Not even close! But for me I like what I did a lot it made a big difference! Then again, I'm not towing anything. Personally, I'd nevr tow anything with an auto trans, burns 'em up! I love the 3.0, but if I were in your situation I'd go with a 3.4 swap or buy a bigger truck - Tundra,Chevy...! So there you have it!
Good Luck!