I recently bought a 1989 Mitsubishi Montero 4DR. Everything works great, except that the wheel lock light is always on . It would be great if this was an electrical malfunction but it is not. I know that the wheels are locked and sometimes at least one disengages and I hear a grinding noise coming from one of the tires. The only way the noise goes away is if I come to a complete stop and at that moment the wheel lock light turns off and on and I hear a clunk noise. Does anybody know what could be causing this and how to possibly fix this problem?

P.s.
I am new to the four-wheelin world and to this site.

Welcome!

Starting with the easiest, have you driven it backwards enough to give it a full chance to disengage?

If you have, and you are sure that they are engaged, then the next step would be to pull the hubs and clean and regrease them. It's not the hardest thing to do. One important part will be to get an 8mm socketed hex hey. The hub bolts will likely be rather stuck and you will need the leverage of a breaker bar to crack them. Also be sure to give them a good dose of PB Blaster before had. Maybe even a day ahead, with a couple more in between. This is may not be too critical for TX, but here in the rust belt... The last thing you want is to round out the inside of the hex cap. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />


Edit: There is also this thing called the pulse damper (?) on the t-case. I don't think it would affect the engagement of the hubs though. And if in the end it turns out the hubs are toast, go with manuals.

I have a similar as yet unsolved problem with a 1993 pajero. Its not a problem with mine however may be worth a check on yours if the front hub lock works on a vaccum set-up. Check that you have not got a vaccum leak from one of the many air lines to the switches and down to the actuater mounted on the front diff. It is pretty easy to test the actuater because there are only two hoses with a blue and yellow marking. Dissconnect the blue hose, slide back the plastic boot over the actuater arm and by removing the yellow hose and replacing it the actuatre arm should move in and out (engage and disengages front hubs)Do this with the engine running GOOD LUCK

HIs is an 89 (probably 88 in your market) and is the old drive train, not the Active-trac / Super-Select. That means tradiional front hubs versus the front diff disconnect.

Let's start even further back. Is the transfer case shifter in 2wdH? 4wd is off pavement only in your model (ice/snow is ok) because there is no center diff to allow the front and rear axles to rotate at different speeds as they must in any turn. Next, back up at least 12-15' with 4wd disengaged, and you should hear the hubs clunk slightly as they disengage. They should NOT re-engage unless there is torque applied to the axle shafts via the t-case. Check by jacking up one or both front wheels and turn the wheel by hand, observing the front driveshaft. If it turns (t-case MUST be in 2wd, and remember to set the e-brake tight), the hub(s) are not disengaging. If both wheels are off the ground, the opposite wheel may turn, indicating the same thing, except both hubs are now suspect.

The light is controlled by a black box under the passenger dash. It takes inputs from a speedo reed switch and a pulse generator on the back of the t-case and compares them. If they match, the box thinks the hubs are locked, and lights up the "Lock" light. The pulse generator only generates a signal when the t-case front output shaft turns (which it will if the hub(s) are locked).

Seldom used hubs often gum up, causing them to be tough to unlock via the reversing method. Internal wear can also cause your problem. Proper lubrication is a light coat of oil, NOT wads of grease.

fasteddy,is that correct?you sayed a light coat of oil for the auto hubs.the fsm says grease.i agree most peaple glob way to much on but i am just wondering what you use.my super winch
uses oil,but i have thought about cleaning the auto hubs up and regreasing them so i can use them just for the hell of it.

Up here, we fill the hub assembly with synthetic grease. More grease inside means less room for water intrusion. This does make them harder to turn, but keeps em lubed better underwater, plus any water intrusion is easy to spot just by pulling the hub face... but make sure that return spring is up for the task.

PHIL

One hub is not unlocking. Simply replace them with Super Winch Manual hubs and your done.

Pull 'em both apart and clean 'em both out. Compare spring tension and travel with each other. If they're noticeably different you may want to replace.

Per my posting in the parts repository:

Superwinch manual hubs
D50
Montero/Pajero 83-90 (doesn't specify engine or trans)
MFR P/N 400543

Between $110 and $130 depending on where you go. Very quick and easy to install. Also more reliable to stay locked when you want them locked and unlocked when you want them unlocked .

I think I remember a TSB on hubs that said a light oil with good stiction, in other words, it sticks where you put it. However, you must remember my age and the probability of senile dementia...

I'd think that if you had good seals (you did put rtv on the hub flange, right?) water intrusion should not be a problem unless you spent a LOT of time in the water so that the interior gas cooled and caused a pressure difference. That's another thing the grease pack would solve....