well as stated in my other post i think i'm going to have to remove my tranny since it doesn't appear to be pumping oil, so i'm going to have to replace the pump. i've never removed an auto before, and i've only helped on removing some manuals, so any heads up advice on this is greatly apreaciated. i've been studying my manual and searching on here for an hour but i just want to make sure i understand this correct.

to remove it you have to remove the starter first and in the hole where the starter was remove the bolts that hold the torque convert to the flex plate. after these and the bellhousing bolts are out should it slide off? is there anything else to look for?

Second question, when refilling the tranny are you supost to have the motor running? because i did not the other day when i filled it.

Thanks
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
Eric

Yeah it is a cake walk to remove an auto. just rember to keep the torque converter with the trany. Hey man give me a call and let me know when you are going to do this. Also you need to swing by and check something outover here.

PS: I know I can't spell But then again I am not the one going to ECU come on now Eric I know you can do better.

I think that's only for the newer non dipstick Zu's. You are supposed to check it with it at normal temp, running, and in park. Before you go pulling the transmission you may want to warm the truck up and then run it through the gears and then check the fluid level. You may be low on fluid.

Some heads up advice, have an extra set of hands. Preferably strap the tranny on a jack, or use a tranny attachment.

Take your time and make sure all of your wires and linkage are disconnected, like the two on the side of your tcase.

Good luck,
Joe

Eric, you don't want to start the engine without any oil in the tranny, if that's what you are asking. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> Put a few quarts of ATF in(5ish) and then after you start up the engine, run through all the gears a few times and then let it sit in neutral(engine running) while you check the fluid level. There is a cold mark and a hot mark so check accordingly. Should never be above the hot mark when it's warmed up.

HELPFUL HINT: To make it easier to get to those bellhousing bolts on top, I found it easiest to unbolt the tranny from the crossmember and then put a floor jack under the tranny and jack it up as far as possible. Top of the tranny will start to hit the tunnel so just be careful. This will lean the whole engine/tranny assembly forward and give you a LOT more room to work behind the engine. Just crawl on top of the engine and you can easily get to those 2 or 3 bolts on top of the bellhousing.

Also, when you put it back in MAKE 100% SURE the torque convertor is seated all the way down on the pump drive, input shaft and stator support splines before you tighten up the tranny bolts. DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT try to pull the tranny up to the engine using the bolts. Things(flexplate) tend to bend if the convertor isn't fully seated. Don't ask how I know but please trust me on this one. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/drunk.gif" alt="" />

Just a couple hints removing the flexplate bolts. You can't see what you're doing through the starter hole. You can see through the bottom access hole in the bellhousing though. Set up some good lighting and look up through the hole in the bellhousing and you can see the bolt up at the starter hole while you're trying to get a socket on it.

Use a large screwdriver to turn the flexplate. Insert into a tooth and push sideways at the edge of the bellhousing hole. Gives you lots of leverage to turn the motor one tooth at a time.

Also, the starter hole doesn't completly un-cover the bolt. The side of the socket will hit the edge of the hole when you're on the bolt. It'll be sitting at kind of an angle. You can still get them, but it may be worth getting a cheap donor socket and grind down it's OD (chuck it in a drill and hit it with a grinder while you spin it). This will give you a straighter shot on the bolt.

--Dan

Thanks for the info and the heads up. i've already bought a tranny jack adapter and i've got some big tie downs i can use for safty straps.

Daniel i should start on it tomorrow (sat) afternoon sometime, if not then suday afternoon. i'll give you a call when i do. Hows the progress on your truck, i need to get out there.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />
Eric

Sounds like a set of gear wrenches would be in order if the socket won't sit flush.

My own words from a few years back, "I just don't think there's anywhere that you can use those things that I can't use a ratchet."

Boy was I wrong.

A lot of good advice here, one more thing be sure to un hook the wiring to your transmission from under the hood and pull it out with the transmission, and have lots of hands to help with that thing because that is a beasts if you are on your back. And prop the motor up so it does'nt tweak your motor mounts. Good luck.