I have a 84 standard cab toy with a buick V6, winch, drive train lift, in cab cage, bed cage, campershell, heavy duty bumpers, wider axles, sliders, 63 inch chevies in the rear with the shocks /\, and the toyota rears and some other spring packs mixed up front, with hyssteer, and 35 x 15.5 x 15's. it is flexy and and body rolls like crazy when cornering on the street with out sway bars.

I said all that to say this. when it had a shell no cages no drive train lift, and downey 3 inch springs it was pushing the stock sway bars to the limit and beyond.

now with the extra lift and added weight I need some beefier sway bars and some way around the hysteer set up for a front sway bar.
I don't want to run stiffer shocks, and running with out sway bars is out of the question, I do too much street driving to not have them. it is too heavy for the stock ones even if I could find a way to reuse them. I would like to use disconnects on the swaybars for wheeling.

if you aren't running a sway bar that's not what I am asking
and I don't want to learn how to drive it with out them since it drove so much better with them and disconnecting them for wheeling is easy enough. I don't want to just run stiffer shocks either. I am asking about sway bar options other than doing with out. if you can't help don't waste post space. or if you have a useless opinion about why I should just get rid of them keep it to your self. I am looking for heavy duty sway bar options to help with the lean on the road.

thanks

Two options,

#1 is a Tacoma front bar, flipped upside down, behind the axle w/ custom mounts.

#2 is a rear sway bar (Addco makes one), bolts on and work well.

I think ErikB has a writeup on #1, I had the Addco rear bar installed for a few months on my '85 and it worked great. Once I get my rear axle sorted out, it'll be going back on w/ disconnects.

I was thinking about this the other day, as I want to ad a sway bar to my SASed rig to help it's street (windey mountain road) manners a bit. The ideas I have come up with are:

1. If you could somehow modify the existing stock swaybar mounting, so that the sway bar could still be used. Then, you could get another, duplicate sway bar. You could cut about 2" off of each end and piggy back it on top of the mounted sway bar, and attatch it with about a dozen SS hose clamps. This would get you a much beefier set up than that of just the stock bar alone, but still be in the cheap price range.

2. Search 'Pick a Part' type wrecking yards for a sway bar off of a s-10 blazer, ford explorer, or an american or import mini van. Basically, something off of a vehicle that has about the same width as our Toys. My Mazda mini van has a way thicker bar than my rig has, and even has a rear bar, too. These junk yard bars should be $20 or less. And just fab up the mounts and disconnects.

A sway bar is essentially a torsion bar, I don't think that just hose clamping two together would make them any more resistant to twisting motion. Applications from other vehicles could probably be made to work, but clearing the driveshaft and oil pan are going to be the biggest obstacles.

As Roger mentioned, Erik B has a Tacoma bar on his truck. It is the best setup I have seen, he has info on his website. I know that Roger has the rear bar, but in theory if you stiffen up the back a lot more than the front the car will want to oversteer, not what I want in my high center of gravity rockcrawler. I think that adding front AND rear bars would be the real hot ticket for street use.

Harry, so what you are saying is that even though a sway bar is a torsion bar and is designed to have a certain spring rate or poundage rating (let's call it resistance to twist), that putting 2 together (like 2 leaf springs or 2 coil springs) wouldn't increase the torsion bars' spring rate (resistance to twist)?

I think that if you mounted two sway bars to your frame and axle you would increase the spring rate, but I don't think that clamping them together with achieve the desired results because the ends are not fixed on one of the bars. Hose clamps don't really prevent the twisting of a round bar, so I would expect one to move relative to another. Really though any sway bar (stock, Currie, whatever) is miles ahead of no sway bar on the road. It is not like we are driving sports cars here.

A 3rd Gen 4Runner Swaybar will work too. I thought Erik was going to break out the tools and swipe mine to try. They are identical. However, the 2001+ Tacomas have a different bar. The eyes face horizontally rather than verticaly. Just depends which type of links you are going to use. All still have the dip to clear (if you flip them) and all are thicker than a 2nd Gen 4Runner's.