How do you get the rotors off of the vehicle??? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

I made the apparently bad choice of buying the only aftermarket manual I could find--the Chiltons. It offers very little advice for this job.

I have the hub cover off and the hub/rotor bolts loose. Now I'm staring at the hub assembly and I can't even figure out where the special hub nut tool (if I had one) would go. Frankly, I can't even determine which piece is the hub nut.

The article at PlanetIsuzoo is for a SOTF vehicle and doesn't seem to apply directly. I've searched this site and Planet's forums six ways to Sunday and found very little.

Can you help?

I have replaced hubs on domestic (Ford, Chevy) 4x4s before and it was always pretty simple. Now that I have this one apart, I'm starting to think I ought to get some SuperWinch manual hubs while I have it apart.

There's a c clip for the cv shaft, a spacer, then a washer with holes in it secured by three screws. Be careful getting them out they strip easily. The washer with holes in it will slide off, revealing a hub lock nut with two holes about 10mm thick. Use a hammer and a little screwdriver to bang the screwdriver into a little hole to rotate the hub locknut.

I think your bearings will come apart at some point, and you may need to remove front and bottom balljoints/brake caliper.

gettting the rotor off of the main hub assembly is done with a block of wood and a big hammer, I think I remember some prying involved as well.

Use the cheapest rotors you can find and Isuzu oem pads, replace the grease seal, buy a haynes manual, and clean/repack the wheel bearings with hitemp purple grease.

You must have something different than I do. I will take some pics and post them here to see if that helps.

Thanks for the reply.

you need to first start by removing the hublocks entirely (which from the sound of your post, you have only removed partly). after that, you will expose the spindle nut which is retained by 3 little philips head screws. remove these and the spindle nut (much like you would on a Ford or Chevy) and then you should be able to slide the entire hub/rotor assembly off the spindle. now you're set up to work on seperating the rotor from the hub.

-Rob

Absolutely. I have removed the hub covers and the brake calipers. I still have the balance of the hub to remove. Pics coming soon--hopefully after you see the pics, you'll be able to give me some much needed direction.

Thanks again for the quick responses.

My lousy (no, make that LOUSY) Chilton manual doesn't offer much in the way of advice for removing any of the parts labeled above. Indeed, I can not find any reference to any of these parts.

If anyone can give me a push in the proper direction, I would really appreciate it.

It appears that the Haynes manual is out of print. Anyone got one they want to sell?

Thank again, you guys have been very helpful.

PS. What's up with the combination disc/drum rear brakes? That's either the most brilliant braking system ever devised or it's the stupidest... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

I have a PDF of the actual Isuzu manual for a 95 Trooper if you want to take a look. It is a rather large file (73Meg).
http://mersh.com/trooper/manual/

If you do get it, get the one that is labeled service manual. The other ones will not help you.

Good Luck,
michael

Here is the exploded view from pg 318.

First off, welcome to the world of Isuzus. I know you are frustrated, but please refrain from being insulting about those things you have not yet figured out.

Rear brakes. Pretty simple. The parking brake is the drum style brake within the hat of the rear rotor. Reasonably common in other newer rear disk braked vehicles of many makes.

Your front hub. You need to keep pulling parts off. From what it looks like, (A picture from straight on would be helpful) you need to pull the c-clip off the end of the CV-axle. That should allow the rest of the guts of the AUTO hub to come off.

At that point, you should have about an inch and a quarter of splined shaft sticking out of the spindle and the outside edge of the hub looking at you. The retaining ring should be visable, along with the screws you need to remove. Behind that is the lock nut. It is round with 2 holes in it, plus the threaded holes for the screws from the retaining ring. There is no real hub socket available. You could modify a 4 prong Ford socket to work, but I have always been sucessful with a screwdriver or a punch at an angle and just tap it to break it free.

Once that is off (plus the removal of the brake caliper) the hub will come off of the spindle. The rotor removes towards the back side of the hub.

Installation is reverse of removal. You will need a spring scale (like what you use to weigh fish with) to set the preload on the bearings. You probably should get a front wheel seal too, so you can repack the front bearings while you are in there.

Good Luck,
Michael

I was unaware that I had insulted anyone. I did wonder aloud about the rear brake design, but I certainly didn't mean to offend anyone.

The rear brakes weren't a problem. The c-clip/snap ring that keeps the hub in place was indeed the culprit. The Chilton manual had no reference to that piece and I didn't see it because it was under some grease.

A tremendous THANK YOU, SIR to Michael Howard who provided me with the exploded view and an invaluable link. I did d/l the entire contents of your library, Mr. Howard, and I am eternally grateful.

It's all over but for the reassembly and bleeding. I did have to use an impact driver to remove the hub nut locking screws, and I intend to replace them with new screws. I am also going to see if I can find a snap ring with eyes that will fit inside the hub. That c-clip (snap ring w/o eyes) was tricky to remove.

Again, I apologize if anything I said offended anyone.

No offense to anyone persay, but quote an overquoted saying; It is easier to attract flys with honey, than with vinegar.

Some of these things are confusing, but we all are here to provide you with some help. Deeming things as possibly stupid is not a good way to appear willing to accept that help.

Michael