Alright guys, after going to check out my 22RTEC, it turned out to be [I beleive] a 2TC. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" /> So, needless to say, I am going to rebuild my 22R instead. I am also looking for a bit more power,and of course 150000m+, not a racecar, but more hp than it has now.

I am already planning to get egnbldrs kit, and boring the cyldrs at least 0.20 over.
I won't need a mhg, will I? Or studs for the head? Like I said, this isn't going to be a race engine, just a daily driver that I want to have a little bit of oomph.
I am looking to get a higher flowing carb, cam, and header/ex. What about valves/vsprings?
I was wondering if anyone has any specific ones that have worked real good, or, any that I should stay away from.
What about a MSD? I have one on my 3S-GTE, and it's worked real good. Added a little more pwr, and raised the gas milage a bit. Would it do the same for the 22R?
Anything else I could do that'll make a bit of a difference?

Finally, in regards to the truck itself [85 King Cab 2wd auto], is it better to go with Toyota parts for the joints, bushings, suspension, and transmission rebuild kit, or am I better off getting aftermarket stuff? If so, anyone got any suggestions? I want to keep stock ride height/quality, tho I would like a bit more payload cap, and maybe a little stiffer ride.
Reason I ask is on Toyota cars, seems like 95% of the time your better off paying extra and getting factory parts.

Thanks ahead of time for your help.

No advice on drivetrain/suspension parts and aftermarket ignitions are snake oil in my book.

On the engine being rebuilt for power gains and improved economy I can definately chime in on though. First and foremost is the head itself. While I hate carbs, a properly set up performance cylinder head will benefit carb and EFI alike. I run a complete Street RV head with 270 cam from Engnbldr. Oversized stainless valves and was all constructed using a new Topline casting, mangenese guides and new springs/retainers etc. I run a stock exhuast manifold into stock downpipe then run with 2" back into 2-1/4" in/out muffler and exit with 2-1/4" pipe. If you dont let it breath the head wont give you all its got. I seen an increase of 2 mpg after installing the head...4 mpg when exhuast system was added.

On boring the engine .020" any particular reason for that number? If the cylinders arent scored or blemished stay as small as possible. Let your machine shop decide what needs cut off, and along with rod resizing and crank polishing they will let you know what size of bearings you'll need.

Whats a MHG? Metal head gasket? Nope, your engine kit will come with a complete gasket set if you order through EB. And they are as good as any other gasket set out there. Superior to any fel-pro gasket by far.

I dont use head studs. When bolting together the Gen2 engine I used new head bolts from Engnbldr. My old set had been removed/reused 5 times and I didnt want to push my luck going for 6 on such an expensive engine setup.

Hope that helps some. Definately let the machine shop make the decisions on the cylinder boring...if they suggest anything over 1mm (.040") tell them stop! Have them show you why they need to cut that much material. These engines arent all that thick...the more you take from the cylinder wall will increase the amount block walk while the engine is running. And as most know, working a rotating assembly in a variable geometry setting isnt the best thing for a motor. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

~Darin <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />

Thanks Darin.

The MSD on the 22R I dunno [shrug]. I don't have any real experience with carbed engines, or the 2xRxx. It did make a seat of the pants hp increase with my Alltrac, and definite gas mileage increase.
I travel from NC to MA quite a bit [800m], and adding the MSD and gapping the plugs from 0.032 to 0.035 added 70+ miles to a tank of gas.

The head you have is the one I am looking at,with the same cam [depends on the budget..]. Any reason you went with manganese guides as a pose to brass? How about roller rockers? Do they make them/are they worth it?
Why don't you have a header? Do they not make one? Not worth it?

On the engine boring I would like to bump up the dis if it's worth it, and with 174000m I figured the cyl would need it [mushrooming? up top].
I wasn't sure on the cyl wall thickness, that's one of the reasons I mentioned it. I definitly didn't plan on going over 0.040. Prolly not even 0.030

Yeah, metal head gasket. I didn't know if it would make any real difference. Same with studs. I'm used to a engine that benifits greatly from these, so...
Definitly didn't plan on felpro <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" /> I was looking at EB for that as well. For most of my stuff, in fact. He seems to have quite the rep here... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

you're not going to feel much(if any) of a power increase from boring one of these. all the magic is in the cylinder head on a 22R. a decent header isn't a bad idea either.

the 22R carb can handle a good amount of modifications before it needs to be replaced. if you step up to anything, go for a holley 350 or a weber 38(390cfm) as a weber 32/36 that a lot of guys use is smaller than the 22R carb.

i really like ARP's products. the head studs are nice because you can put an extra 30lbs of torque on the head than you can with head bolts. a little protection against head gasket failure. i have ARP head and main studs on my engine

Anyone else got any knowledge to share? Always welcome <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Anyone know how much air the 22R carb flows?

How about some suggestions on the header/ex?
Or the body stuff.