Well I got the alignment done yesterday. Firestone has the lifetime alignments on sale now 129.99 <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

The tech gave me the WTF look when he got the truck on the lift. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" /> But they didn't seem to have much trouble getting it back within specs.

I hope to get out and get some action pics up soon.

Ryan,

Action pics? Heck, I want to see 33" tire pics! Hurry the heck up! My wife and I have put a spending freeze on until we know if we owe the feds or not, so I gotta live vicariously through you. Not to mention I want to see someone else do it before I start throwing money around.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cyclops.gif" alt="" />

Well, the new tires will have to wait. After the alignment and new rear shocks, my surplus cash is gone. So I will have to wait until after tax time to see how bad uncle sam is going to bend me over. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

I don't see any reason that 33's won't fit, maybe even 34's.

Ryan,

Zak21 the truck looks sweet! I too have a 97 and my ball joint spacers will be here tomarrow. I would like to know if you had any problems along the way with installation. Especially with getting the ball joints out of the UCA. The directions say that it's as easy as pounding out the old studs in the ball joint. Did you have to use a picklefork? And did you put new ball joints in , or were your old ones ok? Thanks!

What, are only the 97's doing it? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

Yeah, but without fender trim or removing the mudflaps? I'd imagine you are going to have to yank the flaps for the 33's... definitely for 34's. I didn't know they made 34's.

Super Swamper LTB's come in 34x10.5"... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Shaunyg, I had no problems separating the ball joints from the UCA. You will not need a pickle fork unless you are going to change out the ball joints, which is not a bad idea. I elected not to change out mine as they where still in good condition. This is also the perfect time to put zerks in the upper ball joints. To pound out the old studs I took off the nuts and placed a jack under the LCA to keep it in place and beat the piss out of the studs till they fell out. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

My initial thought about the project was to leave the t-bars attached and add the spacer and I would have 1.5" lift over stock. Well now with the spacers in my UCA's are real close to the bump stops, like what you would expect if you cranked your bars. Not a problem though as I will just adjust my bars down till I'm happy. So be prepared to adjust your t-bars as well. I wish I had measured the height stock and then after.

Joel, I got rid of the front flaps long ago, so no worries their. I will have to see about the rears but I don't think they will be a problem.

Ryan,

33's will fit in the rear without any lift... Even with the mudflaps on. I ran that way for about 1.5 years before doing the bodylift & only sanded one mudflap during some hard twisty stuff.

You definitely don't want the t-bars still cranked up really high after installing the spacer - It'll spell doom to your CV's. Lower 'em & flatten the body seam in the front wheelwell. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Thanks Zak21 for all the info! T-guys I just put in my spacers today. The first side took me 4 hours and the second side took me 2 hours. Guess I learned a few things doing the first side huh huh. Man it really does jack the front end up good though. I've got 16 1/2 inches between the edge of the rim to the top of the wheel well. The thing looks like a prerunner now. I'm wondering if I should crank down the T-bars a little or if it will be okay, being that they were just adjusted to stock hight in the first place. I'll have pics soon! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />