I currently have an adjustable drop drag-link to allow for my lift (still have push-pull steering).
I have flipped the ball, so I don't need the 'drop' feature of the link. Does anyone make an adjustable link that is straight, without the 's' curve ?

Why don't you just get some DOM that is the same size (diameter) as the current link and have it tapped out to fit the threads on your current rod ends? That should work.

Pretty good idea.
Thanx Terry.

Rick, can you explain this? I'm looking for an adjustable link, but what do you mean by "flipped the ball"?

You remove the ball stud from the steering arm (faces down in stock form) and insert it from above:



Some threads about this on the Pirate BBS.

How do you remove the ball stud? Do you need any special tools to remove it? Thanks, Ron

Thanks 4Crawler! It looks (according to that pic.), like a U-bolt flip CAN be obtained with stock steering?

Grind the mushroomed head off, use a cone shaped carbide burr in a die grinder and grind down into the countersink. Some thmes you can put the arm in a vise and with a big steel drift and a BFH you can knock the ball out, I use a hyd. press because I have one. Put in in the other side, now this shaft is tapered a bit so the first time I pressed one back in I used my vice and a socket to press it in, now I use the press. Weld the heck out of it, rosette weld the bottom overlapping big then run a couple of welds on the lip by the ball!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> One thing I forgot, I preheat the arm before I weld it and once I am happy with the welds I stick it is a bucket of sand and let it cool completly. I have done six or seven and never had a failure. It has been a few years since I made the last one!!!

Thanx for the responses with pics, David and Roger. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> Thats what I did.
However, I didn't do it myself. My rig is also a daily driver, and would hate to have that ball come loose coming down Ice House road with my wife next to me. I'm not a welder, and even if I was, I wouldn't trust an amatuer welder with my life, so I took it off, and paid a pro to pop out the ball, and re-weld (Welder-boy). I also had him do a spare.
I still use the torque rod (custom adjustable), to lessen the likelihood of breaking the arm (haven't broken one yet) <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />.

Somewhat stock, at least it is till push-pull. You do modify the J-arm as noted and need to have an adjustable draglink and you should have a lift-bracket on the lower torque rod end to raise it up to keep the torque rod in line with the draglink.